Sounds technical? Clarified butter is PURIFIED butter (water and milk solids are removed). Anyone can do it at home: melt butter in a saucepan over a very low heat, skim the foamy layer off the top, and then carefully pour the butter off of the milk solids that have settled to the bottom. Why would I want clarified butter? Without the water and milk solids (impurities), the now clarified butter can be used at much higher temperatures without burning. Clarified butter, without the milk solids, can also be kept much longer without going rancid.
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More French terminology… ‘to crush or grind.’ You will almost always see concasse following tomato: tomato concasse is peeled, seeded and diced tomato. It’s one of the very first things you learn at culinary school!
Traditional French appetizers of sliced or whole raw vegetables that are usually served with vinaigrette or other dipping sauce. Crudités may include celery and carrot sticks, bell pepper strips, broccoli, cauliflower, and asparagus spears. Um… does celery with peanut butter count??!!
By William Taylor Hytinen
For younger generations, it is difficult to remember a time when there wasn’t a coffeehouse on every corner. A world without cappuccino machines in every convenience store seems unfathomable, and waiting in line at the grocery store would be a much greater imposition if it weren’t for the rack full of tabloids covered with photos of strung-out movie stars sucking down iced coffee-concoctions. But while coffee seems to have only become a national addiction in recent years, it has long been lurking in the shadows, waiting for Americans to recognize its delicious potential if selected and brewed correctly.
Coffee beans have a long journey from plantation to palate, but for the benefit of all you non-baristas and coffee-novices out there, we’ll keep this journey as straightforward as possible.
All coffee beans share a similar beginning because coffee only grows between 23.5° North and South latitudes, and at elevations between 1,500 and 5,000 feet. While there are over 900 species of coffee, the two that we most commonly encounter are Arabica and Robusta. Of these varieties, Arabica is by far the better-quality product. Independent coffeehouses and retailers usually use Arabica beans, while major corporations (you know—the coffee that comes in a big can?) use Robusta.
Now that we have established where coffee comes from geographically, we can take a closer look at th e coffee-plant itself. Many people are shocked to discover that coffee beans are actually the “pit” of the coffee berry which ripens to a vibrant red-color. These berries are harvested, and the beans are extracted from the pulp of the berries through one of two methods—wet processing and dry processing. In countries with high levels of humidity and rainfall, wet processing is preferable. It includes dumping the berries into huge vats of water. The ripe, good coffee sinks to the bottom of the vat, while the defective beans float to the top. The good beans are then stripped of their outer-layer of pulp and dried by the sun or in huge dryers. The dry-process method consists of laying the berries out in thin layers on large concrete slabs. They are frequently turned and separated with large rakes to aid in the drying process and separate the high-quality, big beans from the small beans. In either instance, when the drying process is complete, the beans emerge a dusty, white-green color with internal moisture content of 10%.
Ripe Coffee Berries
The dry beans are now ready for roasting. This is perhaps one of the most important parts of creating great, flavorful coffee because the heat causes the starches and amino acids in the bean to react and caramelize, adding nutty, chocolaty notes. The Maillard reaction takes over at the end of the roasting when the beans are hottest, imparting that full, distinct, bitter flavor that makes coffee—well—coffee.
Bean roasting is done by one of two main methods. These include drum-roasting and the fluid-bed roasting. Most local roasters are drum-roasters. In this method, the green coffee beans are dropped into the drum of the machine and roast for somewhere between 12 and 17 minutes at the preferred temperature of the roaster’s operator. In a fluid-bed roaster, the beans are heated and kept in constant motion by jets of air and pressure that “lift” or “float” the coffee. Fluid-bed roasters are preferred by some coffee-sellers because they decrease the roasting time of the coffee and may increase the rate that the finished beans are ready for market.
And now we have reached the final leg of our journey of the coffee-production process—brewing! There are a number of ways to make a cup of coffee and what you choose depends entirely on your personal taste. For simplicity’s sake, I will focus on the three most popular: Drip, Espresso, and French Press.
Drip coffee lets gravity do the work and if done properly, produces a ground-free clean brew. The general ratio of coffee grounds to water in this process is 2 level tablespoons of ground coffee to 8 oz of water. The water should be in contact with the coffee for about 5 minutes, though it varies depending on the fineness of the grind. Finer grinds require less contact time while larger grinds require more. Water temperature is also important. An ideal water temperature for brewed-coffee is 205 degrees, but you don’t need a thermometer! Just boil water in a kettle, take it off the heat, count to 5, and your water should ring in at just around 205 degrees.
Espresso shots with a perfect, foamy head
Espresso is a special treat most of us can only enjoy at a coffeehouse. It is a pressurized extraction in which water is forced through finely ground coffee at a specific rate and pressure to extract the yummy flavors and leave the acrid, bitter flavors behind. Espresso should only be served in a small demitasse, and have a nice thick, creamy head similar to a Guinness.
Finally, my personal favorite, the French Press, is great for making top-notch coffee at home. The French press allows the coffee grounds to be submerged in water for a short time, and then when pressed, the grounds are pushed to the bottom of the pot, the finished product stays at the top, and the coffee is ready to serve. The press does not have a paper filter, but instead relies on a fine mesh screen to separate the water from the grounds. This method of straining leaves a considerable amount of total dissolved solids in the cup, but the coffee generally has a heavier or more robust mouth feel. The other perk of the French Press is that you make the call on the strength of your coffee because you control the water’s contact-time with the grounds. Is a stronger brew more to your liking? Let that puppy steep longer.
A French Press
So that’s coffee in a nutshell—ahem—berry (as you should have learned by now). There is plenty more to come on this subject, but we thought we’d provide you with some of the basics. Stay tuned to intotheSoup.com for more articles on coffee brought to you by Village Coffee Roastery in Scottsdale, or better yet, enjoy them with a cup o’ Joe in-store (they have Wi-Fi!).
For more information on Village Coffee Roastery, Go to the Website
Or just walk right in:
8120 N. Hayden Rd. #E104, Scottsdale, AZ 85258
Also, follow them on Twitter: @villagecoffee
And find them on Facebook!
By Steven Shalowitz
Several years ago, while traipsing through the ruins at Cyrene, Libya, the skies unexpectedly opened and my traveling companions and I took cover from the downpour under a beautifully preserved portal.
Our guide, Maan, a Damascus native, quickly pulled Styrofoam cups and a thermos full of hot tea from his backpack to warm his dripping charges. As a further lift, he passed around a marquetry-inspired tin filled with tiny squares of baklava — “I brought these from home” he smiled. The taste and texture of tender phyllo pastry with a mixed-nutty center and just the right amount of honey, was a completely transformational experience.
That encounter lifted my soggy spirits, and as I schlepped through Libya over the next few weeks, I couldn’t help but think that truly, one of the highlights of the trip came out of a decorative box all the way from Damascus.
I reckoned, if that’s what Syria tasted like, I needed to go.
Ignoring warnings from people who thought I was either brave or crazy, I rattled off a list of sights to them I genuinely wanted to see in Syria. Naturally, I didn’t make known I was also going to satisfy my sweet tooth.
After my late-night Royal Jordanian flight landed in the northern Syrian city of Aleppo, Maan greeted me with his signature smile beaming from his round face.
While he knew my love of history and archaeology, which we covered during my two and a half week visit, he also knew that a key reason for the trip had to do with what I discovered inside a box one rainy day in Libya.
And so the next morning, after meeting me at my hotel, Maan drove me to a nearby bakery for the trip’s raison d’etre.
I walked in and was captivated by a countertop filled with round tray after tray of sweets. As is the custom, the shopkeeper offered me a sample from the array of goodies spread out between us. The morning light streamed in, illuminating each tray as if it were a work of art. While I couldn’t decipher the Arabic on each of the sweet’s descriptions, it took me no time to find the baklava.
I pointed to the appropriate tray and with years of anticipation, carefully took the wax paper cradling the tiny piece of baklava from the shopkeeper, as if it were as precious as any ancient artifact.
I held it to my nose and breathed in deeply, reveling in its fresh-baked sweetness.
Then, the moment of truth…
I bit into the rectangular sweet, and slowly chewed it, uncovering just the right proportion of a flaky top, nutty yet slightly soft center, and a moist bottom. Like that first morsel of Syrian baklava I encountered in Libya, I was sent into sugary nirvana. I hate to think of the carbon footprint created just for that one moment, but let me tell you Al Gore, it was worth it.
Sensing I didn’t want to leave the bakery, Maan motioned for the shopkeeper to pack up a few pieces of baklava for me to take away. The rest of the shop’s sweets I simply had to taste with my eyes.
To see Steven’s blog, visit: www.tastewithyoureyes.com.
Write to Steven at: steven@stevenshalowitz.com
In last week’s blog (Triple Header) I consulted my looking glass and posted the fun time yet to be had at TASTE Chandler. Stupid, cheap ass looking glass! Oh, don’t get me wrong, the event was outstanding. However, the least that overrated, beefed-up sand ball could have shown me was the dust storm that would soon be rolling across the east valley just as the gates opened.
But guess what: Those foodie folks and the great organizers from HDE Agency handled everything with the greatest of ease. The storm subsided, the tents were re-erected (that sounds painful) and the show went on! I had a blast as emcee and cook-demonstrator, yet woke with an interesting yet intense pain in my right elbow. Microphone abuse or bad glass raising technique? Guess we’ll never know.
Tuesday: Emily and I joined our new friends from Ceylon Tea at SLO Foods Organic Café at The Borgata in Scottsdale. We enjoyed Middle Eastern flat-bread with cilantro pesto, parsnip soup, beet salad with citrus and greens, and kobe beef kabobs with roasted vegetables. Oh, did I mention the tea? Best I’ve ever had – seriously. Stop by SLO Foods for a cup or two with your meal.
Thursday: TOM PETTY AND THE HEARTBREAKERS! I think I’ll leave the articulation of this iconic band to the pros and just say it was a magical moment in time. Those guys have got the goods! Oh–and the mastery of 3 chords–and the truth, baby! Need I say more?
Prior to the concert, Abbie and I stopped in at the new Lucky Strike bowling alley in CityScape. It struck me (haha) as a combination of a 70’s sleek-bar with velour make-out couches and eye-level laser bowling. The music was good and the scallops totally surprised and delighted me. True foodies know that scallop preparation is an art , but taking a chance in an upscale bowling alley is what I’m all about. WINNER! The turkey sliders were also quite nice and I loved the fries–perfect salt!
Our last stop before the big concert was at Hanny’s! Peter at the bar mixed up a delectable dry martini with olives and onions. Finally, it was time for Tommy Boy! What an outstanding concert and a great night out! In case you were wondering, yes, I sang all the way homeJ
Friday: I spent Friday afternoon with my amazing husband and had a late lunch/snacks at PF Changs. I know, I know – no chains! But this one’s from Arizona and they make a mean potsticker. My husband, David, left a fortune 500 company one year ago to come on-board as CEO of into the Soup. We would be nowhere near what we have become today without his skills in business, marketing, and his ability to calm his wild-ass wife. He’s my rock and my best friend and we both got a bit verklempt knowing that he’ll be on the east coast in his new-fangled corporate job while we’re filming our next 6 television segments tomorrow. We’ll all miss you terribly, my dear. I love you so!!
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