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On the Road with Ray: Regional Sights and Bites

by Ray Pearson

This Stop: The LumberYard Brewing Company

Flagstaff, Arizona

To the uninitiated, Flagstaff, Arizona may seem like a sleepy little mountain town, undeserving of its location along the glorified Historic Route 66; but take a closer look, and you’ll see that in this groovy little town, there are many ways for a weary traveler to “get his kicks.”

While it may not have been a major tourist attraction for anyone but outdoor-enthusiasts in the past, Flagstaff has seen a major renaissance in recent years. Artists, gourmands, and entrepreneurs have descended upon the area seeking inspiration and opportunity in the shadowy majesty of the San Francisco Peaks. Fortunately, this renaissance laid the foundation for the development of a great food scene. On my travels, I got to experience one of the latest (and possibly greatest) additions, The LumberYard Brewing Company.

 “The Yard” which opened earlier this year, adds a new dimension to the food and drink world of downtown Flagstaff. The beer selection usually includes about ten varieties, ranging in alcohol content from a bit over 4% to nearly 11% ABV (alcohol by volume). Seasonal beers, like an Oktoberfest Marzen, add an ever-changing, dynamic element to the menu.

The food selection is top-notch, eclectic, and inexpensive; I couldn’t find anything over $10 on the three-page menu. Standouts include a Crunchy Cajun Catfish Po’boy, Louisiana Hot Links, Southwest Salad, and a delicious Calamari for noshing.

 

However, the most unique creation by Chef Nick was inspired by his wife Amber: “The Irish Egg Roll” is basically a twist on the Rueben – corned beef, sauerkraut, carrots and Swiss cheese rolled in an egg roll wrap and fried. Served with a side of Russian dressing and The Yard’s special mustard sauce, this baby is a real deal for under seven bucks. The LumberYard Gold Ale went beautifully with it!

With a name like “The LumberYard,” the restaurant and brewery doesn’t exactly encourage visions of creative pub-food and great beer, but locals know that the name is simply a nod to the building’s history. Owners Winnie and Evan Hanseth restored one of the last standing buildings from Flagstaff’s lumber era to create their second location in town. The polished cement floors, classy metal high tops and warm wood booths, all bathed in food-friendly light from high-tech halogen fixtures make The LumberYard a great place to relax and enjoy terrific sights and bites.

With your hunger and thirst satisfied, you might even find the motivation to check out the Historic Route 66 (just one block away), take a look at the shops and galleries that line the streets of the downtown sector, or wander over to the visitor center next to the railroad tracks where more than a hundred trains pass every day.

Keep your eyes open for more Sights and Bites on the road with Ray and join him on his next stop in Bisbee, Arizona at the Copper Queen Hotel.

 

About Ray

Ray is a nationally recognized single malt Scotch expert. He recently retired after 16 years within the spirits industry, including four as Glenfiddich U.S. Ambassador. Ray currently presents educational whisky seminars and tastings for corporate events, destination management companies, and national whisky shows. He is a photographer and member of the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association.

For more articles from Ray, you can visit his blog:

whiskymeister.wordpress.com

And of course check out all of his Whisky 101 articles right here at intotheSoup.com.

Institutionalized and…Loving it?

You know, the word institution isn’t something I would usually apply to a restaurant. The word makes me slightly uncomfortable the way it suggests something more along the lines of a large, technical school…Or some joint with funny white jackets and Jack Nicholson? Then of course there’s the ecclesiastical sense of ‘institution,’ as in the history of the clergy….Maybe I’m just a non-conformist, but while others call Durants a dining “institution,” I’m going to have to disagree (sorry, Urbanspoon). I call this dark, groovy place with a kick-ass bartender who makes a perfect dry martini, not an institution, but a gem!

When I let others know that my Thursday night gallivant was going to include Durant’s, all responses were positive and boy oh boy, did jealousy abound. This was a good sign since the ‘institutional’ talk had me a little nervous (was I going to get ambushed by men in scrubs with syringes and a straight jacket?). You see, um, this was my first time. Trepidation is involved when walking into a place like Durant’s.  One may assume to be greeted with the questioning glance of the regulars as they sip on their ‘usuals’, or the couple in their 70’s whose corner table is always reserved on Thursdays; and finally, the slick guy with his jacket thrown over the bar stool, swirling his gin, trying to shake off the stress of the day – who needs a new girl?

Surprise, surprise – I love it when I’m wrong!  From the moment I realized the entrance was through the BACK of this joint, I just knew I was going to like Durant’s.  The “enter through the kitchen door” – was not at all what I was expecting and nearly sent me into the glee mode of ditching my heels for a pair of crocs and getting to work. Thank God I spied the “COCKTAIL” sign beyond the swinging door so that my adrenal glands could return to simmer. Happy hour trumps again! 

My “DD” Abbie and I found a few chairs at the bar and one extra for my good friend and photographer, John Ormond who joined us post-haste. I was still sippin’ on that filled to the rim martini when we came to the consensus that snacks might be in order. JJ (the kick-A#@ Barkeep) helped us out with a menu…..and a flashlight. Yes, Durant’s is one of THOSE kinds of places: Escapism at its best. Just a quick aside—I think if you need a flashlight to read a menu in a bar, it really deserves to be called a lounge, but either way, COLOR ME HAPPY! 

Our buddy, JJ, suggested the surf & turf and we said, “Yes, please!” Out came perfectly plated Shrimp Scampi with a (dig this) thick, cream sauce, along with some lovely chunks of tenderloin on a stick (and dig this again) perfectly prepared – medium rare. We also noshed on some to-die-for fresh bread–glorious, butter-soaked slices. I have to say that the last onion in my Grey Goose concoction went quite well with those oxy-moronical (new word) JUMBO shrimp.  Seriously though, they were humongous and succulent. Can you say succulently humongous? Then, to top it all off, Chef Ken came out and set us up with a Trio of Crème Brulee.  YIPEEE!

Low lights, tinkly music, red puckered leather booths, back-lit bar, and wall to wall carpet made my acclimation to this “new” old-favorite easy and painless—not at all like being stuck with a syringe or wrapped in the straight jacket.

Durant’s is a gentle and timeless lover. There is no need for nerves or pretense.  Bring along your appetite and your thirst and you just fall right back into it. 

Vol-au-vents

Can anyone say no to puff pastry? Vol-au-vents are small hollow cases of puff pastry that are filled with savory mixtures (meat/fish, sauces, vegetables, etc.) and served as an appetizer or main course. Vol-au-vent is French for ‘windblown’—describing the lightness of the little morsel of goodness.

Nappe [nap]

Stop yawning! In the culinary world, nappe (French) is the consistency of a sauce that will coat the back of the spoon, as well as the food being served with the sauce (a very thin coating).

Gateau [gah-toe]

French word for ‘cake’ but its exact meaning depends on who you are talking to… In America, the gateau is any cake type dessert. In France, the gateau refers to various pastry items made with puff pastry, éclair paste, etc. AND cake. Have your cake, um, gateau, and eat it, too!

Chef Lisa Dahl’s Zuppa Minestra Di Fagioli

The lovely and amazing Chef Lisa Dahl, of Dahl & Di Luca in Sedona, graciously provided this recipe. Zuppa Minestra Di Fagioli, from her new book The Elixir of Life.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

  • 2 pounds dried cannellini beans
  • 14 cups water
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 ham hock
  • Approximately 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 cups carrot, cut in quarters lengthwise and diced in approximately 1/2-inch pieces
  • 2 cups celery, cut in half lengthwise and diced in approximately 1/2-inch pieces.
  • 2 cups coarsely chopped onion
  • 3 cloves fresh garlic, finely minced
  • Half of one medium-sized cabbage, coarsely chopped
  • 1 cup Marvelous Marinara or a good quality marinara (scroll down farther for recipe)
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1 rosemary sprig

Cover washed beans in water, enough to cover by at least 2 to 3 inches and cover the ham hock, if used. Add the bay leaves and bring to a high boil. Lower to light boil and continuously skim the bean foam until it no longer rises to the top. Cover the pot with a lid cocked at a slight angle to allow steam to escape, and cook, checking from time to time to make sure there is enough water. Have extra water on hand to keep a cover of 2 inches.

Meanwhile, cover the bottom of a skillet with sufficient extra virgin olive oil (approximately half cup) to begin sautéing the carrots. Sauté over a low flame for a few minutes until the carrots begin to soften slightly, and then add celery and onions, making a colorful mirepoix.

When the vegetables begin to turn golden, add the minced garlic and sauté a few moments more, being careful not to let the vegetables burn. Take the vegetables out of pan with a slotted spoon and set them aside in a bowl, leaving the residual oil in the pan. To that oil add the chopped cabbage and braise it slowly until golden adding more oil as needed, being careful not to burn. When the cabbage is soft and golden, turn off the heat and add the sautéed carrots, celery, onions, and garlic to the cabbage. Save for later use.

When the beans are beginning to become really soft and tender but still perfectly intact, remove and discard bay leaves and ham hocks. If you want the ham hock meat back in the soup, tear it from the bones and return it to the pot. It is delizioso!

Now, scoop out approximately half the beans and place them in a colander (over a bowl so you do not waste the broth). Pour the beans into the bowl of a food processor or hand-mash them to a puree. Add the bean puree and any escaped broth back into the simmering beans. Add the marinara sauce and sautéed vegetables. Add all the spices except the rosemary sprig. Cook the soup slowly, checking for flavor and color, as it comes into its own. Add more seasoning as desired. Drop the rosemary sprig into the soup for one minute and remove. Drizzle the remaining extra virgin olive oil- whatever was not used for sautéing, into the soup. Cook slowly until flavor is perfect, rustic, rich and fragrant.

Marvelous Marinara – The Mother Sauce

  • 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 cups chopped red bell peppers
  • 1 cup chopped Bermuda onions
  • 5 cloves garlic, finely minced
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
  • 2 tablespoons fresh basil coarsely chopped
  • One 28-ounce can top quality Italian or Cal-Ital tomatoes with sauce (I use San Marzano brand)
  • 2 1/2 cups water

Place the red peppers in a food processor and pulse to achieve a coarse chunky dice. Remove (no need to clean the bowl) and add onion and pulse to the same consistency. It is important to stop the dice before vegetables become watery. Scrape the onions into the bowl with the peppers. Texture of both should be consistent in size so they will cook at the same rate.

Pour the olive oil into a stockpot and heat it until it is smoking. One way to test whether it’s hot enough is to drop a bit of the vegetables into oil. They should really sizzle. Be careful not to let oil splatter on your face or eyes (it happens to me more times than I want to admit!) Allow the sauté process enough time to caramelize the peppers and onions before adding the garlic. As the golden rustic color of the vegetables stains the oil, the garlic can be stirred in and the flame lowered to prevent burning the garlic. As it takes on a caramel color, stir in the salt, pepper, crushed red pepper, and fresh basil and allow the mixture to bubble gently, watching for the color of oil to become a rusty color.

Have sauce can open and ready to pour into stock pot. You want to hear a sizzle when adding thickened sauce. You will need to adjust heat and stir constantly while sauce and vegetable mixture marry together. Reduce heat and simmer long enough to allow drops of oil to resurface and the bright red color of the sauce to deepen.

Add the water a little at a time leaving 1/2 cup (of the 2 1/2 cups) left behind for possible thinning. Let simmer as long as time allows- a minimum of two hours. Check seasoning for salt, pepper, and crushed red pepper. I always like to add a little additional olive oil towards the end to impart a deep rich flavor. Whether you thin with the balance of water (or just a splash more) or not will depend on the intended use for the sauce. One might desire a little thicker sauce for an eggplant Parmigiano –Reggiano than a Bolognese sauce, for example. Buon Appetito!


About Savory Choice Broths

The Soup of the Week is brought to you by Savory Creations and their Savory Choice products. When you don’t have time to make your own stock, Into the Soup recommends Savory Choice. It’s our broth of choice. Find it in your local grocery store or buy online by CLICKING HERE

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