Author: Heidi Lee (Page 74 of 96)

A Unified Theory of Summer Food

Summer and the foods that accompany it are as varied as… um… well, as the places where summer occurs. I know, that was lame, but it really is true. I could come up with a zillion ideas for summer food and the many different locations where I’ve enjoyed them: corn on the cob, watermelon, fried chicken, peaches, burgers, dogs and strawberry ice cream, and I have thought on all of these items individually, but I didn’t find that little spark I needed to bring it all together. Then my weird little brain focused on one little memory that made a unified theory of summer food possible – worms.

We spent of lot of our summer days weeding the garden and harvesting worms. Worms are gross, slimy and amazing multiple celled creatures that turn the stuff that’s in the dirt into the soil that then, in turn, grows the stuff that ends up in the dirt. I’m not doing very well at this. A better writer may say:

“A man may fish with the worm that hath eat of a king, and eat of the fish that hath fed of that worm.” – Hamlet

In the end, worms make great bait for perch, sunfish and bluegills.

My dad worked shift work for awhile, which often gave us the unusual treat of having him home during prime fishing time. You know that question, “Hey Mom, what’s for dinner?”  Often my dad would answer, “Load up the truck, we’re going fishin’!”  You’ve never seen 5 kids move their butts so fast than when they’re told they’re going to the lake.

One of my family’s favorite things to do in those early summer evenings was to head out to the lake and fish for our supper. Not only was this superb family time and an inexpensive way to feed a horde of seven, but memories were also made and life’s lessons were learned along the way.

Once we’d parked, five completely spazzed out kids fell out of the truck with poles, bobbers a tackle box and that ubiquitous can of worms. My folks had two rules:  1) don’t get in the water (you’ll scare the fish), and 2) if anyone asks, you’re under the age of 12.

Just in case you are not familiar with this species we sought, they weigh in at a max of about 12 – 16 ounces with a dining yield between two and five people; therefore, one meal for a family of seven required a “mess of fish.” 

Trust me, with suns, perch, and bluegill the mess is real, but so completely worth it for the taste and the time with loved ones.

If you hadn’t completed casting 101 in the back yard with the blue bucket, you could cop a squat on the dock, release the tension and wait. Matriculated casters spread themselves out evenly along the wooden dock, and we’d toss that line out, wriggling worm and all, and reel them in. 

If my memory serves me well, once caught it was released from the hook, gutted and cleaned right there and tossed in the cooler. Although, I never was a big fan of fabricating small fish, I did have my own pocket knife, and I’d get right down there with my brothers. 

Once home, my mom would dredge them in flour, salt & pepper and fry them in oil. Maybe we had a few ears of corn or some fresh tomatoes, cucumbers and onion and a stack of soft, white bread to wash those pesky little bones down.

I’ve fished a bit since I was a youth but never as often nor with as much complete abandon and joy as was experienced in those soft summer evenings of my childhood. That’s what summer food should bring to mind however you may recall it:  family, friends, ease, enjoyment and peace. That’s what summer is all about, after all.

 Live Well, Eat Well

Heidi

Verdejo Spain’s Signature White Wine

by Michael Cervin

Though Spain is better known for the red wines of Rioja and Ribera del Duero, the Rueda, located north east of Madrid, is home to arguably Spain’s best white wine, Verdejo. Similar in style and characteristics to Pinot Gris, Verdejo fully expresses itself in the high altitude of Rueda where it showcases lemon and citrus, minerality and above all, a sharp acidity which makes it compelling with the tapas so that are so ubiquitous around the region. It’s also inexpensive, with bottles exported to the U.S. usually less than $15. Verdejo has been planted in this area for over a thousand years, and it’s believed it was brought to Spain by the Moors. Some producing vines date as far back 130 years. However it has been only in the last few decades that Verdejo has proved to be the best fit for the cooler Rueda region.

Winemaker Pablo del Villar of Bodegas Hermanos del Villar says, “Verdejo is ideally suited to the poor soils and harsh environment in Rueda.” The stress on the vines and wide diurnal swings, where daytime temperatures can tumble as much as 25 degrees at night, help to create the fundamental acidity that Verdejo is known for. Rueda itself is geographically unremarkable; mainly flatlands, though high in altitude, about 2,300 feet above sea level for most of the region and some areas even get snowfall. The majority of vineyards are bush types, low to the ground which spread out their leaves along the sandy, rocky soils to absorb the sun. The area is also dotted with pine nuts trees; thin trunked trees with a round canopy which makes them look like lollipops. Palomino, Sauvignon Blanc and Viura are also planted here, but they pale by comparison.

There are fewer than 60 wineries in Rueda, and only a handful of those allow public tastings. But things are changing. The grape is catching on everywhere, so much so that acreage has doubled since 2005 and other regions in Spain are beginning to plant it. But like any signature grape, to understand its true identity you need to go to the source.

I visited Rueda in April, 2010 which allowed me the luxury to visit with producers, winemakers and growers, and sample more than 100 Verdejos in and around Rueda. The end result has been a newfound affinity for this white grape. At its best Verdejo is sharp and clean with lemon and lime notes, a backbone of minerality and a potent acidity. That may sound simple, but crafting excellent wines is not a simple process. It was also clear that many producers are trying their hand at a barrel fermented version and the results are less than spectacular. Verdejo is best when left alone and the inherent qualities are not interfered with.

“Verdejo is our personality,” says Juan de Benito Ozores, the director general of Bodegas Alvarez y Diez whose Montel Blanco wine is ubiquitous in the States. It’s understandable that any winery portfolio needs diversity and that has driven winemakers to experiment with oak. But thus far, with a few exceptions, Verdejo is best unadulterated. Though the vast majority of Verdejo should be drunk young, on several occasions, I was table to taste verdejos 10 to 12 years old, and while they are still drinkable and enjoyable, they are not compelling. The bright acids work best within recent vintages and the lively freshness of the wine is at its peak. Additionally, the local tapas in the area, most notably in the city of Valladolid, such as white asparagus, chorizo, bacalau (deep fried cod) and torreznos (a pan fried pork) are enhanced by this invigorating, firm young wine.

Some of the consistent producers of Verdejo include the mother/daughter winemaking team at Jose Pariente, Bodegas Lorenzo Cachazo, Bodegas Naia, Bodegas Yllera and Bodegas Nieva, all names to look out for. While visiting Naia I had the fortunate opportunity to taste through all of the 2003-2009 vintages which showed the differences in growing over the years as some of the Verdejos vary in acidity. This isn’t Napa, there are no picturesque tasting rooms dotting the landscape. There are however, dedicated producers who are striving to perfect the grape that is their own. It’s easy to assume that low yields or “proper” spacing of the vines have some impact on the quality of the fruit.

“Mathematics has nothing to do with it. You just have to pay attention to your vines,” says Victoria Pariente, winemaker at Jose Pariente, arguably one of the best Verdejo producers. And she underscores why the wines from Rueda are gaining notoriety; simply put, the winemakers are paying strict attention to their signature grape, making certain the world knows when they reach for Verdejo, it’s classic Verdejo they will get, not some funky blend or well-intentioned winery “project.” Pariente sums up the nature of Verdejo poetically. “Wine is like a bear. When it is cold, the bear wants to hibernate. When it is warmer out, the bear is more active.” Currently the wines from Rueda are indeed active with wonderfully crafted juice that truly reflects a sense of place.

About Michael

Michael Cervin has been writing about the wine industry for over a decade from his home in Santa Barbara, California. His publications include Decanter, Wine & Spirits, Wine Enthusiast, The Tasting Panel, Wine & Dine, Wine Country This Week, Santa Barbara Magazine, IntoWine.com, and more than 60 other publications. He is the restaurant critic and travel writer for the Santa Barbara News-Press. His wine and food judging experience has included The Best of Vinho Verde in Portugal, the Monterey Wine Competition, the California Central Coast Wine Challenge, The Taste of Rum Festival in Puerto Rico, the Firestone Chef’s Challenge (with celebrity chef, Bradley Ogden), the Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting, the Paso Robles Winemaker’s Cook-Off, and many other competitions. Michael is the author of the Moon travel-guide Santa Barbara & the Central Coast and is a co-author of the Moon wine travel-guide, Moon California Wine Country, to be released in April 2011. His first book, Generous Fiction was released in 2009. Check out his wine, food, and travel photo-blog: www.CervinItStraight.com and www.MichaelCervin.com

Add This Book to Your Collection:

Michael’s latest book will hit bookstore shelves nationwide on October 26, 2010. The Moon handbook, Santa Barbara & The Central Coast, “is the most comprehensive travel book to date covering Santa Barbara and Santa Barbara wine country, as well as Ventura and Ojai in Ventura County, Morro Bay, Cambria, San Luis Obispo, and Paso Robles,” says Cervin.

The book details the best area wineries, choice places to eat and stay, and things to see and do from the usual (Mission Santa Barbara, Morro Rock, Hearst Castle) to the unusual (Bubblegum Alley in San Luis Obispo, the Frog Wall in Santa Barbara, Ojai’s Pink Moment, and Morro Bay’s Black Hill).

Baking Baguettes with Chef Randy Foote

We wanted to learn how to make a baguette as part of our feature for the month. So we turned to our great buddies at the Arizona Culinary Institute and specifically baking Instructor extraordinaire Randy Foote. This is a fun and informative video.

Members of Into the Soup can download this and all of our basic technique videos by signing in and clicking here: DOWNLOAD

This Breakin’ Bread is sponsored by Capistrano’s Bakery.

Capistrano’s Featured Bread: The Julien Baguette

by David Lee

A baguette, translated as “wand” or “stick,” refers to a particular type of loaf that is long, crispy, crusty and closely associated with France. Of course we see them now in grocery stores everywhere, and the best for us comes in the form of the Julien Baguette from Capistranos’.

Apparently, the French government has attempted to create a defining law regulating what a baguette represents but has not been entirely successful. Still, under French standards, the name baguette can only be used for bread made from lean dough made of four ingredients which are flour, kitchen salt, water and yeast. Traditionally, the loaf is about 2 1/2 feet long weighing in at just under 8 ounces.

The baguette is one of the simplest to make but one the most difficult to perfect. Lengthy fermentation is necessary to develop the complex flavor of the well made baguette. Two methods can be used to achieve this; 1) a pre-ferment starter, or 2) overnight fermenting for what is called a first rising.  Of course, the two techniques can be combined.

The crumb, a random distribution of holes of various shapes and sizes, is desirable in a baguette. Hydration and a bit of kneading accomplish this. Most recipes call for just a few minutes of kneading time to develop the gluten in the bread if there is a proper amount of water to develop the strands.

The appearance of the loaves is a result of the formation process of rolling the dough and scoring (slicing) the loaves immediately prior to baking and, of course, the baking method itself.

Scoring, traditionally, is also a way of identifying the baker. The story goes that, back in the day, when people shared ovens, they had to add their own mark to know which of the loaves were theirs.

The baguette is different from other French breads because of its baking process. Hearth style breads are baked directly on the stone deck. This is accomplished by forming the loaves on parchment paper and then ferrying them to the oven.

Bakery ovens have a built in steam generator that allows the baker to incorporate steam into the oven at the start of baking; thus, minimizing the caramelization of the sugars on the crust. During the baking process, the steam is vented and the bread is finished in the hot dry environment of the oven.

Baguettes are not all alike. Finding one’s own technique comes from long years of practice. One of the most recognized is the award winning recipe from Jean-Noel Julien of Paris.  It does not get more authentic than that. There are only a few places to find this recipe in the US and one is right here in Arizona. Of course, it our friends at Capistrano’s. Chef Julien spent two weeks with Capistrano’s master baker teaching him the method.

Capistrano’s breads are available for order wholesale by calling (480) 968-0468 ext.1001 or visit their website here

Visit Capistrano’s Wholesale Bakery online by clicking here.

Click Here to read more Breakin’ Bread Features

Or, in Arizona, Capistrano’s artisan breads are available at Vincent’s Saturday Market on Camelback when it is open, at Holsum Outlets, and now at Luci’s Healthy Marketplace. Here are the locations.

  • Apache Junction – 10107 E. Apache Trail
  • Casa Grande – 823 N. Pinal
  • Chandler – 7275 W. Detroit
  • Peoria – 9210 W. Peoria
  • Tucson – 2801 S. 4th Avenue
  • Luci’s Healthy Marketplace -1590 East Bethany Home Road, Phoenix

 

A Culinary Student in Lyon: Entry #3

Hello Soupers!

First thing’s first. I am finally in a flat and no longer worrying where I will sleep at night. It’s a very nice place and a pretty good sized house. My room is a little, cozy space in the loft. Really just somewhere for me to put my head down at night, but it’s not like I need a huge room.

I now have six flat mates who are all very nice. Some people might say, “Wow, that’s a lot of people!” But I like to think of it as six more friends in France. The situation is pretty sweet and has taken a load off my shoulders.

My flat mates are all here doing their internships too. Most are seeking business degrees except one who is getting her PhD in Microbiology. All but two of us are from France. Mel is from Portugal or Brazil. I forget which one.

We take our meals together most times. No one ever just cooks dinner for themselves and goes to their room to eat. One thing I love most about being in France in general is that everyone I have met seems to know how to cook. They may not cook advanced dishes like you find at a restaurant, but they certainly are not tossing out microwave dinners either. I love that everyone loves to cook and eat together.  

One of my mates doesn’t speak any English at all and the rest speak only a little, so French is the language used in the house. Sure, they speak English to me if we’re having a conversation, but I only hear French around the house. I suppose this is good because I can catch onto the language faster.

Now that I have settled in to the flat, I have started going to the restaurants I researched for my internship. I woke up and headed out at 10am so that I would hit the restaurants before the rush. I had my cover letters and resumes with me and dressed professionally.

I targeted two specific restaurants; the Caro de Lyon and Leon de Lyon. These were the two that I had determined were the best for my goals. They were also in a district that is surrounded by so many other restaurants that I could fill the day.

At Caro de Lyon, I went in and asked for the manager or chef (in French). The hostess pointed the way. I went to the desk beside the bar and saw the manager sitting there. I asked if she spoke English. Luckily for me she did. I explained to her who I am and what I am doing, then handed her my cover letter and resume. I then told her that I had researched her restaurant and would like to intern for them in the kitchen. She said she would review my papers and get back to me after she talked with the Chef.  

I felt very comfortable going in to more places after that since it went so smoothly, so I headed to Leon de Lyon. I followed the same process there but the gentleman I spoke with told me they weren’t looking for anybody at the time. He did say he would take my resume and look it over.

After that, I walked around the area looking for restaurants that caught my eye. I checked out their display menus before I went in to make sure they served the kind of food I wanted to learn. I entered four restaurants. Two said they had no openings in the kitchen, one just took my resume without a word, and another said they weren’t interested in having an intern. I was kind of bummed and frustrated by that point, so I started back to the flat.

When I was on my way back home, I passed this restaurant that I see every day but have never thought enter.  I decided, “What the heck I have nothing to lose and have to keep positive,” so I mustered my confidence and walked to the door as if I never got been to those other places.

It was closed! Ugh! So, now I was even more bummed. I stood outside the door for like ten minutes just thinking what to do now.

I said to myself, “Don’t let this get you down. You are going to find a place and will stop at nothing to do so.”

Wandering a bit, I decided to venture down a street I have not been down before. Good thing I did because I found a restaurant that I haven’t heard of yet. I looked at the menu and noticed it was a Relais Chateaux rated restaurant! I walked in and spoke with the Maitre d’Hotel. He took my resume and cover letter and said that he would look it over more carefully then give it to the chef. He also told me that he would pass it along to their sister restaurant to see if they needed any interns, and then, he gave me his business card telling me to call him back soon to check in.

I was so excited after that! While it wasn’t a guaranteed interview, it was still a lot more than I had gotten the whole day. I mean, if he wasn’t interested I don’t believe he would have given me his business card. The restaurant’s name is Cazenove and is very nice and fine dining. I decided it was time to go back home on a good note.

Tomorrow, I will be out again looking for more restaurants. One restaurant that I am going to is Paul Bocuse’s! I am so nervous and excited about this all at once. I really hope to get a good response. I also have a connection through a friend whose boss said they could help. I am keeping my fingers crossed, and I hope you are too!  

Au revoir,

Coty

To read more of my experience in Lyon, click here

Chef Eddie Matney’s Chilled Heirloom Tomato Soup

 

My husband and I spent our second anniversary at Chef Eddie Matney’s restaurant in Phoenix AZ. It was a grand experience. Now, I could not be more proud to feature his Chilled Heirloom Tomato Soup as our Soup of the Week.

Ingredients

  • 4 – Heirloom Tomatoes

  • 2 – Cloves- Fresh Garlic

  • 1/4 Cup – Chopped Red Onion

  • 10 Large – Fresh Basil Leaves

  • Juice from  – 2 Lemons

  • dash – Worcestershire sauce

  • 1/4 cup – Olive Oil

  • 1/4 Cup – Shredded Parmesan Cheese

  • Salt & Pepper

Blend all ingredients until smooth, chill for at least two hours. Serve in shot glass topped with fresh chopped avocado and creme.

 Click Here for More Soups of the Week

About Chef Eddie Matney

One of the biggest personalities in town and affectionately known as “the most colorful chef” in the Phoenix Metropolitan area, Eddie Matney’s approach to New American Cuisine embraces the belief that the “melting pot theory” applies equally well to cooking as to sociology. According to Chef Eddie, his cooking is a “Mirror of America”, multi-cultural, multi-ethnic and utilizes the many flavors that are native to classic American and Mediterranean cooking. Chef Eddie is a co-host on “Your Life A to Z” on Arizona’s Channel 3, two times a week. Along with being dubbed the “Number One Chef in the Valley” for five consecutive years by Phoenix Magazine, he has been celebrated for his unique culinary style in a number of prestigious publications including Food and Wine, USA Today, Bon Appétit, Food Arts, Nation’s Restaurant News and Money Magazine. While in New York for his dinner presentation at The James Beard House, Chef Eddie was featured on CBS’ The Early Show. He also found time to co-author Heartfelt Cuisine, which is a quick and easy heart healthy comfort food cookbook.

Check out his restaurant Eddie’s House by clicking here.

 

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