Author: Heidi Lee (Page 60 of 96)

A Culinary Student in Lyon: Entry #11, Innocents Abroad or A Culinary Student’s Progress

October 5, 2010 / Heidi Lee / 0 Comments

Hey Soupers,

No need to salt and pepper me–I am officially a “seasoned” traveler! (Some culinary humor for you). My 5 1/2 months living and working in a French kitchen were some of the best of my life. But for the last half of September, I finally got the chance to spread my wings and see more of Europe. What a trip!

I began my travels in London to visit a friend that I met in Lyon. I didn’t realize how used to being immersed in the French culture I was until we began touring London. The sound of spoken-English was almost deafening to my newly bilingual ears. I was unimpressed by the English food, but I guess I shouldn’t have been surprised. My palate has been spoiled by carefully-crafted French dishes.

My next stop on my mini-European tour was Innsbruck, Austria, where I met up with the “Dining on a Dime” ladies, Julie and Emily (they are also my schoolmates), and two other schoolmates, Kolby and Jeremy. Julie, Emily, Jeremy, and Kolby all happened to be in Innsbruck for a cooking competition (The Big Cooking Contest) in which they were competing, so when I found out about this a few months ago, I booked a flight to support my friends! Of course, the competition may have been the focus of their trip, but I have to admit that it wasn’t mine. Innsbruck is a picturesque little city nestled at the base of the Alps. The buildings are very old and beautiful, the river that runs through the center of the city is lined with walking and bike paths, and public parks and gardens can be found around almost every corner. As if the scenery wasn’t enough reason to visit, the food is pretty darn good: Sausages, Schnitzel, and Beer cheaper than water? Yes, please.

The day after the competition, my friends decided to take a day-trip to Bolzano, Italy to reward themselves for a job well-done (Kolby and Jeremy placed second and won 1800 Euro!). Naturally, I went along, you know, in case they needed me for my French-skills…

I believe Julie was the most excited out of all of us. After all, it was her idea. I think it was about a 2 hour drive and it was beautiful! None of us could put our cameras down. Once we arrived, we found a really nice restaurant called Blue Moon. It was one of my favorite meals here in Europe. We ordered a few appetizers to share–beef tartare, veal carpaccio, and some smoked fish. For our main course I had the rack of lamb served with a pan sauce, potatoes and some veggies. It was delicious, but it didn’t end there (thank goodness). To top it all off, we ordered every dessert on the menu. We had the strawberry-tiramisu, creme caramel, creme brulee, chocolate and white chocolate mousse, and some kind of puff pastry that seemed to be stuffed with marshmallow crème and covered in chocolate.

Once we finished our lunch we walked around the outdoor market. Emily learned that you are not allowed to touch the food there when she was scolded by a not-so-friendly Italian vendor for picking up an apple. I guess in some parts of Europe, shopping is really a hit or miss activity! That night I said goodbye to everyone and wished them all a safe flight back to the states. It was a bittersweet farewell because it was nice to see them, but I was going to Parma, Italy next!

Another culinary school-friend of mine is currently working on her Master’s degree in the study of slow food. I can’t tell you much about that, but Natalie does blog about it (see bottom of page for link) so you can learn more about what she is doing there.

Natalie is obviously a foodie, so she took me to the local joints with the best “eats.” I had some great espresso and hot chocolate there! The hot chocolate was so thick it was almost pudding! Natalie introduced me to some of her Italian and school-friends, but very few spoke English. Luckily, one did and she explained to me that people in Parma don’t really speak any other language. The “Parmesanos (?)” are very proud Italians and a bit isolated from what I gather. I understand their pride, though. The town is beautiful and the people are genuine.

I know you are just waiting for me to say it, but OF COURSE I had the cheese! On my last night in Parma, I dined in a wonderful restaurant where I had tortellini filled with spinach, pumpkin and potato served with plenty of PARMesan Cheese, and need I even say it? I had gelato for dessert. Words just can’t express my love affair with this gelato…

And that my friends, is really where my story ends…for now. My last days in Europe consisted of the drudgery of gathering my things and departing from Paris. Now, I must return to the States for a few short months to finish my degree, but there is no question in my mind that I will be scheduling my return flight to Lyon soon after my plane hits the tarmac in Arizona.

Bon voyage et Au revoir!

Coty

To read more about Natalie’s studies of “slow food” (no, we don’t mean escargot) go to http://eatslow.wordpress.com

Dining on a Dime: Village Coffee Roastery in Scottsdale

October 1, 2010 / Heidi Lee / 0 Comments

When ITS suggested we go to Village Coffee Roastery for our next DOD, we thought… “really? Coffee?” We had been to coffee houses before, heck there seems to be one on every corner now, and having a pastry and a cappuccino for under $30 seemed at once easy, unfulfilling and uninspiring. Boy, were we wrong. Village Coffee is NOT your typical coffee joint.

When you first walk in, you notice the difference at Village Coffee. Of course coming out of 114 degree weather into a cool, air conditioned environment is enough of a relief; but once your eyes adjust from the bright sun outside, you see that the folks who come here are regulars. Not “regulars” in the sense that they come in, grab a latte and leave. These people come in, sit down and spend the day together. They work here, they socialize here, they eat here, and they get their entertainment here. When you say neighborhood, family joint, this is what you mean.

Another difference is that Lisa, the owner, is as much part of the place as the cappuccino machine. She is either sitting at one of the tables talking with the folks or behind the counter whipping up the grub. She took the time to personally explain to Emily how Village Coffee creates one of their signature drinks, a John Wayne espresso, by layering the cream in between shots. “Try this,” she said handing the glass over, “After, you can feel your eyeballs.”

And the food… Oh, my. We recommend coming in for lunch because the sandwiches are outstanding. Julie had the Rueben with house pasta salad, and Emily had the Coffee Rubbed Short Rib sandwich, which is the Thursday special. The Short Rib is probably one of the best sandwiches this writer has tasted. It is worth a trip across town just for that (I can’t wait to go back). The Rueben was also pretty awesome and comes with the added entertainment an ongoing argument between Lisa and one of her employees as to whether it truly is a Rueben. We won’t take sides, we just want more.

“Is the coffee better?” the addicts ask. All we can reply is a caffeine infused YES! For one thing, they roast it themselves on-site using a patented process utilized by only 11 other roasters in the world, and they time it so that the coffee is only served at its peak potency. The number of varieties they have from all over the world is almost overwhelming but fun to explore. Of course, if you are not a coffee drinker, they have tons of other drinks including Italian Sodas and beautiful teas. Julie had a Thai tea with a shot of espresso, two drinks she loves in one, “definitely a highlight.”

Still, it’s the food we went to check out, and we were impressed. Village Coffee Roastery ain’t your standard, corporate run coffee joint. It’s a place where people come to play and stay and eat.

Click Here to Check Out Their Website

Location:

120 N. Hayden Rd, Number E-104

Scottsdale, AZ 85258

See More Dining on a Dime’s by clicking here

Triple-Header

September 30, 2010 / Heidi Lee / 0 Comments

I am SO glad that I started taking my vitamins. Playing a triple header this week boys and girls!

Wednesday: Began with my DD, Abbie, and me heading east to the Eatrip film event at The Chef’s Loft presented by Slow Foods and Edible Phoenix. My curse of arriving way too early all the damned time delightfully landed us at the gorgeous new location of Marcellino’s on Stetson Drive. We were so warmly greeted I was catapulted back to my business class days on Singapore Airlines – and that’s a good thing!

I enjoyed a lovely glass of Pinto Grigio (Abbie had Cranberry Juice), and the fun and well-educated bartender, Lou, expertly informed us of the specials and showcased the homemade pasta selections.

Next, I met Chef and instantly asked that he join me on TV – big, Italian, not afraid to speak his mind – famous kind of guy! His wife, Sima, sat down with us for a few minutes and Scott gave us the skinny on just how wonderful employment is with this crowd.

I promised to stop by for dinner some night when I’m really hungry and elevate my taste buds to what must surely be Nirvana. Up the stairs we go to The Chef’s Loft. If you haven’t been there, you should go for some of their really cool cooking classes, or better yet, reserve the space for your next fundraiser or cocktail party. You’ll be well cared for.

The Eatrip film was a documentary from Japan which painted a picture of several people’s intimate relationship with their food. The texture of the piece was lovely and I really enjoyed it, but what I enjoyed even more were the samples we received from Sushi Roku and Sapporo……

Thursday: Into the Soup and Emily get a press pass to the newly redesigned and revamped Sapporo. Talk about another great greeting! We got Red-Carpet treatment, but the red ropes had me scared there for a minute. My evening was kick-started by a Sapporo Slushy, followed by beautiful girls and boys offering tastes of everything from shrimp spring rolls to sushi on a chip, and my favorite, calamari fries.

Chief Brand Officer (and super nice guy) Daniel Harf explained their concept and introduced the crowd to his team. One of which was Director of Culinary Operations, Chef Steve Byrne. Naturally, I had to go introduce myself and immediately insulted Chef by insinuating he was from the England – insert foot – he’s Irish. Didn’t seem to matter though – lucky me. I got a bit of a personal tour of all of tempanaki stations set up in permanent position throughout the restaurant. There was a beautiful separation of spaces with black bamboo, low hanging ‘lanterns’ and levels. The menu was a kick a$& selection of Kobe beef sliders, lamb chops with mint pesto and Asian pear, scallops, mussels and of course, sushi. An element of most of the cocktails being served was ROCK SAKE. The adorable owner of the company, Brad, sweated as he applied my very personal fake tattoo (pictures to follow)

Oh, we also made a pit stop at T-Cooks for some fan-inspired tacos, my first hand-shake with THE Mark Tarbell, and to spend some time with MY biggest fan Christina Barrueta and her husband, Ernesto.

Friday: TV time! I rose bright and early this morning for a quick segment on Channel 3 promoting TASTE Chandler. Not ready to abandon my Asian-themed week yet, I whipped up some Sapporo-inspired sushi for the camera (and camera crew…and Tara Hitchcock).

Saturday: TASTE Chandler. I’m not there yet, but thought I’d let you all know what a great time I had in case I forget to tell you. Yours truly will not only be doing a cooking demonstration, but I get to emcee the VIP event, too! Play by play on all of the chefs and their creations. Who wants to bet I’ll mistake sweet corn sauce for marzipan?

Oops, I’m out of vitamins – anybody got a vodka-Redbull handy??

Food Science: Ice, Ice, Baby

September 28, 2010 / Heidi Lee / 0 Comments

By Chef Joe LaVilla

One of my favorite childhood memories of summer is a Lemon Italian ice. It was syrupy, sweet, tangy and refreshing all at the same time. As I grew up and relocated, I found that it was difficult to find that particular treat. So, putting my knowledge of chemistry and the culinary arts to good use, I found that all it took to emulate my it was the perfect proportion of three common ingredients: sugar, fruit, and water. Oh… and a freezer comes in handy too.

If you’re not a fan of Lemon Italian Ice but find sorbets, Granitas, or fruit bars irresistible, you can apply the same chemistry and ingredients to create these confections. While these icy treats differ in form and texture, you will find that they are basically the same. The distinguishing characteristics are mainly dictated by the proportions of the ingredients used in their creation and the containers in which they are stored.

The basic science behind making an ice treat is the concept of freezing point. The freezing point of a liquid is the temperature at which the free-flowing molecules begin to organize and form a solid. While it is not possible to make a liquid freeze at a temperature higher than 32 °F (the standard freezing point of water), it is possible to make it freeze at a lower temperature.

One way to drop the freezing point of water is to dissolve something into it. This is the theory behind salting the roads in winter. The salt reduces the freezing point of the water (precipitation) turning what would be slippery, icy streets into significantly less-hazardous, wet asphalt. The addition of sugar does the same thing in the preparation of an ice-based dessert. Sugar molecules disrupt the organized structure of the ice crystals effectively lowering the point at which the liquid becomes solid.

Why would you want the freezing point of a sugar-water solution to be low? So that it will stay soft in the freezer. It’s certainly easier to scoop sorbet than an ice cube!

Now that the physics of the matter are out of the way, let’s focus on making some ice-treats.

First you must decide what kind of dessert you’re craving. Do you want a rich, fruity dessert? Something that resembles scoopable fruit juice? Or, a crunchier fruit-ice? Any of these are possible depending on the liquid, fruit, and sugar ratio you use.

The classic recipe for sorbet combines water, sugar and fruit juice. To determine if the correct amount of sugar has been added, a chef will often float an egg in the solution. If a dime sized portion of the egg floats above the liquid, he has added enough sugar. This is the poor man’s hydrometer, a tool for measuring specific gravity or density. A sorbet made with this method tends to have a good texture, but often lacks a vibrant, fruity flavor.

This is where science helps kick the recipe up a notch; that is, enhance the flavor and “scoopability” of the sorbet using more exact measurements and ratios. For a sorbet to attain the correct texture, it has to have a specific concentration of sugar. That concentration needs to be 15-30% sugar. If the solution is closer to 20-25%, the sorbet will be smooth and manageable upon production, but will need to be tempered if it is left in the freezer. If the mix is between 30 and 35% sugar, the treat is spoon-ready right out of the freezer. Anything that has a higher concentration of sugar will weep syrup in the freezer and in the bowl.

If you’re looking for a dessert with more “bite”, a Granita may satisfy your palate. It is an Italian-style ice with large, dry, flavorful crystals that is made from a mixture of water and/or juice that has a 15% concentration of sugar. The lower sugar concentration means that the sugar has less of an impact on the formation of ice crystals. During the freezing process, the water and juice are allowed to form larger, sturdier crystals that yield more of a “crunch” when devoured. The mix is frequently stirred to keep it loose and servable.

So, what’s the guideline?

Well, for two cups of liquid or liquid and puree, add between 5 to 8 tablespoons of sugar. The variation is determined by the sweetness of the fruit. For a very sweet fruit like a peach, 5-6 tablespoons should do the trick, but a lemon would require about 8 tablespoons. If you are using a fruit puree, it is possible to reduce the amount of sugar because the pectin and solids of the puree will help keep the sorbet soft.

Also, it is important to note the importance of balancing the sugar with acidity. Typically very ripe fruit is low in acidity and high in sugar. For every two cups of a low-acid fruit puree/juice, it is necessary to add a tablespoon of lemon juice. For high-acid fruits, it may not be necessary to add anything. As for my summer memory, Italian ice is about 35% sugar. That concentration explains the slightly syrupy flavor and consistency.

Mimicking a sorbet from the grocery store would involve taking a cup of fruit puree, adding a bit of sugar and lemon, diluting the mixture to yield 2 cups, and freezing. If you only had juice (or coffee, tea, cocoa), taking a cup of liquid, adding about 11 or 12 tablespoons of sugar and a couple of tablespoons of lemon would result in an ice with a more delicate flavor and texture.

So if the Ice Cream man doesn’t come around anymore, your favorite childhood treat is only as far away as some fruit, sugar and a freezer.

About Joe LaVilla

Chef LaVilla is the Academic Director for the Culinary Arts programs at the International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Phoenix. Besides being a Certified Executive Chef, Chef LaVilla also holds a certification from the International Sommelier Guild (ISG) as a Certified Sommelier. In addition, Chef LaVilla is experienced in food styling, food and wine pairing, the hospitality industry, culinary arts management, and more.

Before joining The Art Institute of Phoenix, LaVilla had been Executive Chef for Tucchetti restaurant in Phoenix. He has worked for Mark Tarbell as well as Wolfgang Puck. His credits include, “Faculty of the Year” award at The Art Institute of Phoenix; finalist in the Arizona Pork Council Taste of Elegance Competition; and author of the textbook “The Handbook of Wine, Beer and Spirits: A Guide to Styles and Service”.

Chef LaVilla received his Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry from the University of Rochester and his Bachelor of Arts degree, Cum Laude, in Chemistry from Cornell University. He also received an associate’s degree in Culinary Arts from the Culinary Institute of America, where he graduated with honors.

Italian Arugula Soup with Pesto Crostini Provided by Edible Phoenix

September 25, 2010 / Heidi Lee / 0 Comments

Edible Phoenix is part Edible communities, a nationwide movement to support buying local food products. They provided this soup recipe which appeared in a recent issues of their magazine. The soup comes from Executive Chef Edward Farrow of Café at MIM. He met farmer Carl Seacat of Seacat Gardens while working at a previous restaurant and kept in touch. Chef created this light and healthy soup to showcase the wild Italian arugula grown at Seacat Gardens.

Ingredients

4 ounces The Meat Shop bacon, small dice
1 medium sweet onion, small dice,
4 stalks of celery, small dice
2 carrots peeled, small dice
1 Anaheim chile, small dice
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 small bunch thyme, leaves only
2 sprigs of sage, leaves only
1 gallon vegetable stock
6 ounces white tepary beans, cooked – see note
6 ounces brown tepary beans, cooked – see note
1½ pounds Seacat Gardens arugula leaves (no stem)
2 lemons
2 limes
Salt to taste
Crostini (recipe follows)
Arugula pesto (recipe follows)

Cook bacon slowly over moderate heat to render as much fat as possible. Add onion, carrot, celery and chile, and cook until translucent. Then add minced garlic and herbs. Sweat slowly for 5 minutes, making sure you gain no color on the vegetables. Add the vegetable stock and beans. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add 1½ pounds of Seacat Gardens arugula to simmering liquid. Stir vigorously and turn off fire. Squeeze the juice of both citrus into soup. Season with salt to taste. Serve with grilled crostini spread with arugula pesto.

Serves 16; recipe may be halved.

Note: tepary beans are small firm beans native to Arizona. You can substitute navy beans, lentils or other small legumes.

Crostini

1 baguette (thin loaf of French bread)
Olive oil

Slice baguette at an angle. Brush with olive oil and grill over medium heat until toasted, a couple minutes.

Seacat Arugula Pesto

½ pound Seacat Gardens arugula leaves (no stems)
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan-Reggiano
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons pine nuts or walnuts
1 medium garlic clove, minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Purée all ingredients in a blender until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

For more Soups of the Week Click Here

About Pamela Hamilton, Publisher and Editor of Edible Phoenix

Pamela Hamilton has enjoyed living, food shopping and dining around the world. She established Edible Phoenix magazine to celebrate the abundance of the Valley season by season. “There are so many amazing people quietly establishing and carrying on food traditions in the Valley who are passionate about what they do, but you have to really look to find them. Often they don’t have the support they need. One of my jobs is to unearth these ‘hidden gems’ and to get their stories out to the general public.”

Pamela is the Governor of the Southwest region for Slow Food and is a member of Les Dames D’Escoffier. She is a past co-leader of Slow Food Phoenix and currently serves as Treasurer for the local chapter. Pamela serves as a board member for Community Food Connections and is a member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. She was formerly a management consultant and holds a Bachelor degree from Stanford University. Click here to learn more about Edible Phoenix.

About Savory Choice Broths

Click Here for More Soups of the Week

Capistrano’s Breakin’ Bread: Bagels

September 22, 2010 / Heidi Lee / 0 Comments

by Emily King

A bagel and cream cheese, some orange juice, coffee, and a newspaper: Sounds like a wholesome “All-American” sort of breakfast, right? The bagel has become such a popular breakfast food in this country, that it is almost surprising to think that they are not an American creation at all! Contrary to what you might think, the bagel was not created in conjunction with “Philadelphia Cream Cheese”—in fact, bagels pre-date cream cheese by over 200 years!

Bagels are ring formed breads that are typically boiled before baking. They have a crisp outer layer, preventing the dough from rising beyond a certain point. Like many food products, the origin of the bagel is a little bit foggy, but a whole lot of fun if the story is true!

Folklore suggests that the bagel was designed as a tribute to Jan Sobieski, a Polish General. In 1683, this Polish General saved Vienna from invasion by the Turks, and as legend has it, the adoring townspeople clutched his stirrups (“breugels” in German) as he rode through town. The King asked a baker to design a bread-product in the shape of a stirrup to honor the general for his bravery. Overtime, the stirrup-shaped bread morphed into the rounder shape we know today, and the “breugel” became the “bagel.”

Of course, there are other explanations for the bagel’s ring-like form. Some accounts say that Russian and Polish bakers created the bagel because it was easy to skewer on long poles and sell on the street as a competitor for bublik, while others believe that it is simply a descendant of the pretzel and got its name from the German word “beignen” which means “to bend.” Heck, there are apparently Egyptian hieroglyphs showing a bagel like bread being eaten by the ancients – or was that the eye of Ra? You know what they say, “…print the legend.”

No matter which Bagel-origin theory you believe, it is clear that they became an important tradition in Polish communities. Because of their ring-shape, the bagels were considered a sign of luck and good tidings and were commonly given as gifts to pregnant women. Mothers even used them as teething rings for their grumpy, uncomfortable babies.

Polish immigrants, many Jewish bakers from Krakow, left many things behind as they traveled to America in the early 1900’s to seek out new opportunities; but luckily, they brought their bagel-making tradition. Bakers in New York, Toronto, and Montreal introduced the public to bagels and the public simply couldn’t get enough of the chewy, round bread.

The bagel has endured because of its practicality. The process of making it creates a protective outer crust that allows it to last longer then baked breads and stay fresh. It is perfect for spreads, and it is easily transportable. Not to mention, good bagels are quite tasty.

They became widely popular in the United States after WWII when American’s became open to new culinary influences and mass production became possible. Today, we can find bagels everywhere—from coffee shops to delis.

They are difficult to make at home, though and can be quite messy, we don’t event try. We get ours from Capistrano’s Wholesale bakery. So, toast them. “shmear” them with cream cheese, or build a sandwich (they make great cheeseburgers), and check out our sponsor’s for all their quality breads.

Click here to read more Breakin’ Bread Features.

Visit Capistrano’s Wholesale Bakery online by clicking here.

Click Here to read more Breakin’ Bread Features

Or, in Arizona, Capistrano’s artisan breads are available at Vincent’s Saturday Market on Camelback when it is open, at Holsum Outlets, and now at Luci’s Healthy Marketplace. Here are the locations.

Apache Junction – 10107 E. Apache Trail
Casa Grande – 823 N. Pinal
Chandler – 7275 W. Detroit
Peoria – 9210 W. Peoria
Tucson – 2801 S. 4th Avenue
Luci’s Healthy Marketplace -1590 East Bethany Home Road, Phoenix