Author: Heidi Lee (Page 54 of 96)

The Spirit of Tea

By Chef Larry Canepa

You may be wondering why we have an article on tea in the Wine & Spirits section of our website. Well, while it may not be as inebriating as other beverages; it is intoxicating in its own way, it has seduced the world, and it is as addictive a substance as any other. So with this definition as a justification, we will place it here to facilitate further debate.

In the book, The Empire of Tea, the authors describe the impact of tea on the world as no less than miraculous. Described as a conqueror, an addiction, and a cure all; tea has led many of the great waves of history. It provided impetus for discovery of the east by the west and vice-versa. It helped enable the industrial revolution by providing a safer alternative to contaminated water than wine or beer (fewer people mucking up the works by falling into the machinery), it served as a MacGuffin for the American Revolution, and it is even thought to have caused a number of religious movements because of its meditative qualities.

The book quotes Isaac D’Israeli on the subject:

The progress of this famous plant has been something like the progress of truth; suspected at first, though very palatable to those who had the courage to taste it; resisted as it encroached; abused as its popularity spread; and establishing its triumph at last,  in cheering the whole land from the palace to the cottage, only by slow and resistless effort of time and its own virtues.

But to many, tea is still an enigma. It comes from exotic places that most of us may never visit and the difference between high quality and mediocre tea is difficult for the uninitiated to discern since it provides no lingering headaches. So, let’s take a moment to try to understand tea a bit better.

First of all, let’s define “tea.” All true tea comes from the leaves of one plant, Camellia Sinensis. It is a hearty plant that developed on the eastern slope of the Himalayas. Basically, if it doesn’t come from this plant, it ain’t tea. Other types of infusion drinks including Tisanes, or herbal teas, come from a variety of plants, botanicals, and fruits and are quite nice in their own right but are not considered tea.

Similar to wine, tea is affected greatly by the environment in which it grows. Differences in soil and weather conditions create a rich mosaic of tea’s many varieties and flavors. Altitude also plays an important role. Tea plants grow slower at higher altitudes producing leaves with more concentrated flavor.

Gourmet tea varieties are almost exclusively made from these high-grown leaves while the low-growth varieties are more common and more likely to be found at the supermarket. What makes a gourmet tea? Gourmet teas are made exclusively from the plant’s most tender young leaves. Tea pickers, usually working by hand, select the plant’s two youngest leaves and a yet-to-open bud. These tender new leaves produce a tea that is more gentle and flavorful than the older varieties and are reserved for the highest quality production.

As the popularity of tea grew over time, it spread to different regions of the world. The most widely recognized teas come from China, Japan and India but quality teas can come from areas ranging from South East Asia (see Sabah Tea Plantation in Borneo video) to Britain.

There are many classifications for tea, and how the leaves are processed will determine a key distinction as white, green, oolong, or black teas. The main difference between the many tea varieties is how much oxygen the leaves are allowed to absorb during processing. When tea leaves are harvested, a natural oxidation begins to occur. This oxidation is environmental and is halted by heating the tea leaves. This heating is done by firing or steaming the leaves. Unprocessed leaves are white tea. A bit of oxidation results in green tea, and abundant oxygen produces dark-colored black teas.

Oolong teas are allowed to oxidize for various lengths of time and the extended oxidation produces a wide range of character and caffeine content; the darker, or more oxidized, the higher the caffeine content. While this is a simplification of a somewhat complicated process, it outlines the basic characteristic differences in the various tea types.

Tea is often lauded for its medicinal purposes. In the beginning, its primary benefit came from the fact that one needed to heat and boil water to make it. This, clearly, made the water safe to drink. In addition, to this fundamental medicinal quality, all “tea” has healthful benefits. It soothes and relaxes and provides us with many important antioxidants. One just needs to taste and explore to find the one that most appeals to you. Since there are over 3,000 different teas in the world you are sure to find one that is perfect for you.

After you have decided which varieties will be permanent fixtures in your pantry, you’ll want to know how to properly brew them for optimum enjoyment (no–throwing a tea bag in a mug of water and then giving it a whirl in the microwave will NOT suffice). We got these tips from the tea experts at Ceylon Tea:

First, the experts suggest investing in a tea kettle. They are relatively inexpensive, and truly provide the best environment for steeping tea.

  • Black tea – Black is the most robust of the tea varieties and can be brewed in truly boiling water, usually steeped for 4-6 minutes.
  • Green and white tea – Be gentle with all green teas. The water temperature should be around 150-160ºF and only steeped for 2-4 minutes.
  • Most herbal teas – With so many different herbs that can be used for herbal tea blends, there is no way to give any temperature or steeping guidelines with any accuracy. Most herbs can be brewed in boiling water and steeped for about 5 minutes. You might need a bit of trial and error to get the perfect cup.

If you don’t have a thermometer handy, you can tell the water temperature by watching the bubbles. Small bubbles will float to the surface of the water 160-170ºF, and you’ll see strings of bubbles from the bottom of the kettle at 180-190ºF. After that, you will have a full rolling boil.

You also can use an infuser to steep your teas for easy cleaning. Refrain from filling the infusers to the top. Make sure that there is room for the leaves to unfurl during the steeping process. The best infusers are made from one or more of the following materials:

  • Finely woven non-reactive metal (such as gold-plated metal wire)
  • Micro-perforated non-reactive metal (such as food grade  stainless steel)
  • Non-leeching/BPA-free food grade plastic
  • Closely woven wood that doesn’t impact the tea’s flavor, such as those made of bamboo.

Finally, always use a strainer to pour the tea into your cup. You want to drink tea. not chew it.

So, go ahead and get addicted. Feel free to be seduced. Raise a cup and drink to your health!

There are many tea purveyors out there, but our favorite is made by our partners at Ceylon Tea.

Click on the logo to learn more about Ceylon Tea, and select from an array of delicious, high quality teas.

Members can read more on Tea Classifcations and Varieties of Tea by signing in and clicking here.

About Larry

Chef Larry Canepa brings  30 years of Food and Wine experience to today’s adult culinary learners. He has worked in the Food & Wine business as Chef, caterer, sommelier and Food and Wine educator. He has taught culinary and restaurant operation classes at the International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Phoenix and Le Cordon Bleu, Scottsdale. His experiences include management and operation of free-standing restaurants, hotels and resorts. Chef Larry Canepa owned and operated the full service catering business, Dinner at Eight for 10 years in the Valley, specializing in intimate private dining and wine seminars. Larry Canepa has conducted seminars and lectures on coffee, tea, wine, etiquette, cooking and service for students, adults, continuing education classes and charitable organizations.

Heidi’s Pho Shooters

Inspired by her time in Southeast Asia, Heidi and a friend worked on this soup for a recent event in Phoenix. She enjoys it almost weekly at one of her favorite restaurants, Pho Avina. You’re gonna LOVE it!!

Ingredients:

  • 1 gallon beef broth
  • 1/2 ea onion
  • 1/2 cup wood ear mushrooms
  • 1 pod star anise
  • 1 ea cinnamon stick
  • 2 cloves garlic, crushed
  • 1/2” piece ginger, sliced
  • 1” piece lemongrass, crushed
  • 1 tsp ground black pepper
  • 2 Tbsp fish sauce
  • Rice noodles
  • Scallions

In a large pot, place the broth and the mushrooms. Place over medium heat and bring to a low simmer

Halve and char the onion in a hot –nonstick pan – let cool. In a large piece of cheesecloth, place the onion, star anise, cinnamon, garlic, ginger, and lemongrass. Tie into a sachet and place in the pot of broth. Add the black pepper and simmer for 1 hour.

Add the fish sauce and simmer another 15 minutes. Remove the sachet, check for seasoning and add salt if necessary.

Once the broth is complete, pour over rice noodles and garnish with chopped scallion. YUM!

 

About Savory Choice Broths

The Soup of the Week is brought to you by Savory Creations and their Savory Choice products. When you don’t have time to make your own stock, Into the Soup recommends Savory Choice. It’s our broth of choice. Find it in your local grocery store or buy online by CLICKING HERE

Who’s Cookin’ Now: Lisa Stroud of Village Coffee Roastery Scottsdale, AZ

by Heidi Lee

I’m not sure if it was the slightly confused look on my face as I read the menu at Village Coffee Roastery for the first time, or my outright admission that I am a bit of a coffee novice (my money’s on the latter), but Lisa Stroud took one look at me and explained the science of picking the perfect coffee in terms I could understand. It’s as if she looked into my soul, thought “Geez, you look really dehydrated,” and decided that a wine-analogy would be most appropriate in my case.

Seriously though–Lisa poured me a cup of Hara, and with my first sip, I realized that the perfect cup of coffee truly is as complex as good wine, perhaps even more. This cup, full of buttery undertones and just the right amount of smoky oak was my “coffee-Chardonnay,” and Lisa was my coffee-savior.

Village Coffee Roastery is one of those places where everyone that walks through the door is “Norm” from Cheers and she’s “Coach” behind the bar, except instead of dolling out beer and sarcasm, she’s serving up gorgeous coffee-drinks and lively conversation. Lisa Stroud is quite the charmer. Her great, positive energy probably stems from the fact that she’s absolutely passionate about what she does for a living, and that passion and excellence certainly translates to her superior product. Lisa and her team use a scientifically developed, very specific roasting process that is performed in only 12 coffee roasteries in the world. This ain’t no second-rate coffee shop.

I could sit and talk with Lisa for hours, and in fact, I did just that. I planted myself on a barstool (how perfect) next to a very good friend of hers, and the topic of conversation naturally turned to coffee and food.  As we laughed, sipped our drinks, and ate some soup, I asked her friend how they’d met.  Her reply didn’t surprise me at all: “Oh, I was just a customer sitting here at the bar and we got to talking and now we’re the best of friends.”  See?  I told you she was charming.

From the time I arrived until my departure, a steady stream of customers came through the door itching for their daily caffeine fix and a little bit of Lisa. She danced through her tasks with grace, a bar towel, and a smile. Conversation never ceased and folks were happy. Even the creepy, Dementor-like scream of the Espresso machine didn’t disrupt the cheerful ebb and flow of conversation; however, it may disrupt my dreams tonight (Haaaaaaaaarrrrryyyyyyyyy).

Finally, I broached the subject of coffee snobbery. I figured that if they existed in the wine-world, they probably existed in the coffee-world. You could almost see the hairs on the back of Lisa’s neck come to attention. Apparently the issue isn’t necessarily with those who drink the coffee, it’s with those who make it, and Lisa finds this snobbery outrageous. How many of us pay attention to the fact that a vanilla latte topped with caramel syrup is technically called a caramel macchiato, and why should we? Trust me when I tell you that at Village Coffee Roastery, the staff loves the customers whether they know their ‘macchiatos’ or not.

Lisa attributes her success to loving her job and keeping a good sense of humor. Whether she’s tooling around town on her motorcycle, playing with her dogs, seeking out some funky new joint for dinner, or making you the best darn drink you’ve ever had, Lisa is passionate about it all–Oh, and she’s a whole latte fun!

Man, I have to lay-off the caffeine.

Sharon Levinson’s Seafood Chowder

Sharon Levinson is a big supporter of C-CAP and a world traveler so it’s not hard to see why we’re featuring her killer recipe for Seafood Chowder this week! She and her husband, Larry were inspired by the Chowder they shared at the Boat Shed Cafe in Nelson, New Zealand and they hope that this recipe will inspire you to go there, too! Rock lobster makes a nice addition to this dish.

Larry’s Seafood Chowder

Ingredients:

Seafood Stock

  • 30    Mussels [optional] well cleaned and bearded
  • 1-2 lb    Prawns and shells
  • 1 1/2 lb     Fish and fish scraps [tilapia]
  • Vegetable scraps – onion, celery, carrot
  • 2 1/2 Qt    Water

1. Combine ingredients, except mussels, in a large pan, simmer uncovered for 20 minutes.  
2. Add mussels and cook until shells open, discarding those that don’t.  Strain and reserve.

Tomato Provençal

  • 1/2    White onion, finely diced
  • 3    Garlic cloves, finely diced
  • 1 1/2 oz    Olive oil
  • 1 1/2 oz    White wine
  • 26+oz    Tomatoes, pureed or can of pureed tomatoes    
  • 1 tsp    Rosemary, Oregano
  • 1/2 tsp    Marjoram
  • 1 oz    Honey
  • Salt and pepper to taste

1. Sauté the onion and garlic in the olive oil until translucent.  Add the white wine and reduce.
2. Add the pureed tomatoes and bring to a simmer.
3. Add the herbs and honey; continue to simmer for 15 minutes stirring occasionally.
4. Check the flavor; season with salt and pepper but keep the Provençal slightly sweet.  Set aside.

Chowder Base

  • 4 oz    Butter
  • 3 oz    Carrots, finely chopped
  • 3 oz    Onion, finely chopped
  • 3 oz    Celery, finely chopped
  • 4 oz    Flour
  • 1 Qt    Reserved Seafood Stock
Fish to add in step 3:
  • 12 oz    White fish – sole, tilapia
  • 4 oz    Mussels, chopped
  • 12 oz    Shrimp, chopped if large
  • Calamari tubes, finely sliced [optional]

1. In a large pot, sauté onions, carrots and celery in butter until tender.  Add the flour and cook gently for 2-3 minutes until you get a somewhat sandy texture.
2. Slowly add the seafood stock until you have a smooth sauce, stirring frequently.
3. Bring to a boil and add the seafood; cook for 3-4 minutes or until the fish is cooked.  Stir in the mussels.
4. Check the seasoning.  Add dill, if desired.

Assembly

  • 3 C     Chowder base
  • 1 1/2 C    Provençal sauce
  • 1/2 C    Cream

1. To serve the chowder, put 3 C of chowder base and 1 1/2 C of Provençal in a medium saucepan.  Add 1/2 C of cream.
2. Stir together and simmer two minutes.
3. Meanwhile, sear 12 scallops in butter until golden.
4. Ladle chowder into bowls; add 3 scallops each and sprinkle with parsley. Serve with crusty bread!

 

Careers through Culinary Arts Program (C-CAP) works with public schools across the country to prepare underserved high school students for college and career opportunities in the restaurant and hospitality industry. A national nonprofit, C-CAP manages the largest independent culinary scholarship program in the United States. Since 1990, C-CAP has awarded students $31 million in scholarships and donated $2.5 million worth of supplies and equipment to classrooms. C-CAP operates in seven locations: New York; Los Angeles; Chicago; Philadelphia; Hampton Roads, VA; Prince George’s County, Maryland; and statewide in Arizona.

 

About Savory Choice Broths

The Soup of the Week is brought to you by Savory Creations and their Savory Choice products. When you don’t have time to make your own stock, Into the Soup recommends Savory Choice. It’s our broth of choice. Find it in your local grocery store or buy online by CLICKING HERE

Eww Du Partie

The holiday season is rife with nostalgia. It’s a time to remember loved ones who have moved on to greener pastures, holidays-past, and, in my case, “partying”-past. I remember one of the many times my folks came to pick me up from college for some sort of break. If you went to college, you certainly recall those “hurray-finals-are-over/pre-home-for-the-holidays” soirees that occurred throughout the dorms, frats, and dilapidated student-houses for about 3 weeks prior to departure. Ah, youth!

I’m not sure whether to blame it on weak laundry detergent or our temporarily elevated BACs from weeks of celebration, but on one of those parent pick-ups, we loaded our gear in the trunk and jumped in the car only to be greeted with “Wow, you two smell like old party.” What does this have to do with the price of eggs? Well, this morning I jumped in my car and smelled “old party”. Intrigued? I thought so.

What might be the source of this aroma you ask? Well, intern entourage-member, Abbie, and I went to Skye Wednesday night, and although my bar-tab featured just 1 Grey Goose and a few glasses of wine, apparently my lymphatic system felt it necessary to…well, do whatever it is that a lymphatic system does…via my pores. Needless to say, it brought college-memories of antics and inebriation flooding back.

I have no intention of regaling you with stories of my youth, but I must tell you that I felt pretty special sipping my martini (from a real glass—not a plastic cup) as Chef Scottie Tompkins of Skye regaled me with stories of his youth. College, keggers and frat parties don’t hold a candle to full-blown culinary apprenticeships and the ‘situations’ these boys and girls got into. The years they’ve spent building skill, knowledge, and memories could fill several volumes – pictures not included.

Scottie is one of those big, kind-of-scary Chefs, who isn’t really scary at all—that is, unless you’re a rattle snake (or Len Rueben) and he’s got a cleaver. (apparently there are pictures of this). His favorite food is pizza and when asked about the highlights of his career, Scottie says it’s the “Thank You”(s) from former interns and employees that make it all worthwhile.

Chef Tompkins has been at this business for a long time and most certainly knows his stuff. Skye is a little star in Peoria and has a vibe that is in short supply in the food and club scene: Think big band-era hits a really cool, hip Parisian bar. Supper club with added zip comes to mind, as well. Who doesn’t love a joint with great cocktails, an awesome Happy Hour and a piano bar?

We were having so much fun talking that the only thing we ate were a few macaroni bites and a shrimp or two. While tasty, it apparently wasn’t quite enough to soak up the vodka/wine combo, but I’ll tell you what – I’ll endure “odeur du old partie” anytime as long as I get to sit and swap tales with the likes of Scottie Tompkins. Thanks, Chef!!

Chef Barbara Fenzl’s Cream of Chayote Soup

My favorite soup recipe is Chayote Squash Soup. Many people don’t know about the chayote squash–it’s a lovely, versatile ingredient. I was once cooking in Aspen with Jacques Pepin, Julia Child, and about 8 other people and Jullia had never seen one. It was such a thrill for me to teach her something!!

 

 

Ingredients:

  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
  • 1/2 cup diced onion
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
  • 1 serrrano chile, seeded and finely chopped
  • 2 chayote squash (1-1/2 pounds), peeled, cored and cut into 1/2-inch dice
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
  • 2 cups vegetable stock
  • 1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves
  • 1/2 cup heavy cream

Garnish:

  • 1/2 cup heavy cream
  • 1/4 cup chopped chives

Heat butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat; add onion, garlic and chile and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add chopped chayote squash, salt and pepper, and continue cooking, stirring, another 2-3 minutes. Add vegetable stock, bring to a boil. Lower heat, cover, and cook until squash is tender, about 20 minutes. Cool slightly and put mixture into a blender. Purée; add cilantro and puree again. Return mixture to the saucepan and add the cream. Season with salt and pepper and heat to the desired temperature. Ladle the soup into bowls. Put the cream in a squeeze bottle; drizzle a little cream and some of the chives over each serving. Serve immediately.

Makes 6 servings

 

About Chef Barbara Fenzi

Barbara Pool Fenzl is a major figure on the American culinary stage. Her first love is teaching, but she is also a cookbook author, magazine writer, and television personality. In 1983, Barbara founded Les Gourmettes Cooking School in Phoenix, which offers demonstration classes that she, restaurant chefs, cookbook authors, and traveling instructors from across the country teach. Barbara was the host of a 13-week PBS television series, “Savor the Southwest,” which aired in 1999 in approximately ninety markets coast to coast, and for the past several years she has hosted cooking-related pledge drives (“A is for Appetizers,” “D is for Desserts,” and so on) on the Phoenix-area PBS station. Barbara is the author of Southwest the Beautiful Cookbook (Collins San Francisco 1994), Savor the Southwest (Bay Books 1999), and Seasonal Southwest Cooking (Northland Publishing 2005). She was also the food editor of Southwest Passages and Phoenix Home and Garden magazines. As if that wasn’t enough work, she is a frequent contributor to Bon Appétit magazine and other national publications.

 

About Savory Choice Broths

The Soup of the Week is brought to you by Savory Creations and their Savory Choice products. When you don’t have time to make your own stock, Into the Soup recommends Savory Choice. It’s our broth of choice. Find it in your local grocery store or buy online by CLICKING HERE

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