Month: December 2010 (Page 2 of 4)

Food Science

Our resident “Food Scientist,” Chef Joe LaVilla, received his Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry from the University of Rochester and his Bachelor of Arts degree, Cum Laude, in Chemistry from Cornell University. He also received an associate’s degree in Culinary Arts from the Culinary Institute of America, where he graduated with honors.

In this series of articles, he explains the chemical reactions that take place as we cook and prepare the foods we eat each day. In the kitchen, knowledge ia power! Put on your nerdy glasses, tie your apron strings, and click here to learn some food science.

Capistrano’s Breakin’ Bread: Apple Danish Bread

by Emily King

The living room looks as if it has been vandalized by disgruntled Hallmark employees, the most expensive toys are already broken, and you’re wondering why anyone bothers to send electronic gifts sans batteries…

For all the joy and laughter the holiday season brings, it certainly has its difficult moments; moments best spent out of earshot and eyesight of the in-laws. My suggestion: Steal away from the “merriment” for awhile, head to the kitchen, and work a little Christmas magic of your own making a simple, gorgeous breakfast. Luckily, in this age of ready-made, gourmet foods, this is one miracle even the most inexperienced cook can pull-off.

Sure, you could spring for the “break-and-bake” cinnamon rolls or muffins in a box, but why cheapen your precious moments alone? Just think about how impressive a stack of Apple Danish or Cinnamon Raisin stuffed French toast would be. Add a few sausage links or bacon, some warm syrup, and a pitcher of juice for a hearty, homemade breakfast that will sustain your guests until you re-heat your Honey Baked Ham around 2 p.m.

Of course, a really delicious breakfast bread can be eaten all by itself (and if you’ve ever had a loaf of Capistrano’s Apple Danish Bread, you know what I mean), but using it in place of plain bread makes even the most mundane of recipes special. Since it’s the holidays and we’re feeling generous, we’ll even share our top-secret recipe for stuffed French toast; just promise us you’ll make it with love.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays from your friends at into the Soup, and Capistrano’s Bakery!

Apple Danish (or Cinnamon Raisin) Stuffed French Toast

Serves 4 -8 (depending on appetite)

Ingredients:

16 Slices Capistrano’s Apple Danish or Cinnamon Raisin Bread

Butter, melted to oil pan or griddle

Cream Cheese     ½  Cup

Apple Butter         ½ Cup

Eggs, beaten        6

Heavy Cream       ½ Cup

Cinnamon            ¼ teaspoon

Nutmeg                ¼ teaspoon

Procedure:

Beat eggs, heavy cream, cinnamon, and nutmeg in mixing bowl.  Set aside.

Make apple butter and cream cheese “sandwiches” with the bread of your choice. Spread 1 tablespoon of cream cheese on one slice and 1 tablespoon of apple butter on the other. Put them together like a sandwich and cut off the crusts. Repeat this process until you have 8 “sandwiches”. Set aside.

Gently heat 1 stick of butter in a small saucepan until it is completely melted. Do not allow it to burn. Remove it from the heat source.

Heat griddle or non-stick pan over medium heat.  Brush or drizzle your cooking surface generously with the butter.

One at a time, take the “sandwiches” and dip them into the egg mixture making sure all sides are thoroughly coated. Allow excess egg to drip back into the bowl, and lay the sandwich on the cooking surface. Repeat this process, but do not over-crowd the griddle or pan.  You probably do not want to exceed more than two sandwiches in the pan at a time. You should hear a quiet sizzle as you place the sandwiches on the cooking surface.

When the first side of the sandwich is deep, golden brown, turn it over to cook on the other side. When the same result is achieved on the second side, remove the sandwich from the cooking surface and place it on a warmed plate under foil. Repeat this process for the remaining sandwiches. Keep in mind that you may need to wipe-out the pan or griddle after a few sandwiches if the butter becomes dark or burnt. Also, continue to add butter throughout the process as the bread will soak it up during the cooking.

Drizzle with melted butter, warm syrup, and a sprinkle of powdered sugar.

Visit Capistrano’s Wholesale Bakery online by clicking here.

Click Here to read more Breakin’ Bread Features

Or, in Arizona, Capistrano’s artisan breads are available at Vincent’s Saturday Market on Camelback when it is open, at Holsum Outlets, and now at Luci’s Healthy Marketplace. Here are the locations.

  • Apache Junction – 10107 E. Apache Trail
  • Casa Grande – 823 N. Pinal
  • Chandler – 7275 W. Detroit
  • Peoria – 9210 W. Peoria
  • Tucson – 2801 S. 4th Avenue
  • Luci’s Healthy Marketplace -1590 East Bethany Home Road, Phoenix

 

The Weekly Whet: Stray Cat Bar and Grill’s Orange Dreamsicle

If you like to go out, play pool, and have a few drinks with friends once in awhile, living within walking distance of a great bar might be as much of real-estate perk as say, a pool or a roomy carport.

Well, friends, I’m happy to say that my new residence is literally a few hops, skips, and one big wall-jump away from a great bar: Stray Cat Bar and Grill. Dim lighting, pool tables, karaoke, and a rather adorable bartender sporting a Santa hat reassured me that I was in for a good night. I bellied up to the bar, introduced myself to the bartender (his name is Josh), and asked him to make me his signature drink. He cheerfully took my request and moments later, presented me with an “Orange Dreamsicle”. I took one sip and decided that it’s probably a good idea to call my realtor and thank her.

Orange Dreamsicle

Ingredients

  • Whipped Cream Vodka    1 1/4 oz
  • Hazelnut Liqueur                1/4 oz
  • Milk                                  3/4 oz
  • Orange Juice                      3/4 oz

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice and shake well. Strain into a glass and enjoy.

Stray Cat Bar and Grill

2433 E University Dr. Tempe, AZ

(480) 967-1040

 

 

 

Food Science: That’s GRAVY

By Chef Joe LaVilla

If there is one holiday menu item that strikes fear in the hearts of cooks, it is the gravy. For some, it is the stuff of legendary failure; for others, it is a long- standing family legacy that has saved even the driest turkey. Whichever camp your gravy falls into, understanding the science behind the technique to making this simple sauce will ensure that the best gravy never fails, and the worst stays out of the garbage disposal.

For those of you who believe that gravy is something that comes out of a packet or jar, let’s begin with the definition: Gravy is a sauce made from the pan drippings of a roast, thickened with a roux and enriched with stock.  Of these three ingredients, the roux is often the culprit of many gravy-pitfalls.  Roux is a mixture of flour and butter that is cooked together, and serves as a thickening agent for hot liquids.  Cooking the flour and butter (or any other fat) before adding them to a sauce serves two important purposes. 

The first purpose is to evenly coat the particles of flour with fat.  If the flour is not coated evenly, adding it to the liquid components of your sauce will yield a lumpy texture.  This process is called gelatinization. When liquid comes in contact with a starch granule, it begins to absorb the water and expand.  If a large cluster of granules comes in contact with liquid, only the outside granules will participate in absorption, while the inside granules remain insulated in the center of the cluster. This cluster becomes a non-giblet lump in your gravy. If you had enough time on your hands, a tiny knife, and a magnifying glass, you would see that if this lump were sliced in half, the very interior would still contain dry flour.  By making sure all flour particles are coated in fat, you have more time to whisk them into the liquid before they gelatinize.  This allows you to disperse them evenly throughout the sauce and achieve that silky texture you want.

The second purpose of the cooking process is to cook the protein that exists in the flour and toast the starch. These reactions prevent the underlying “floury” taste of some gravy. Let’s take a look at the structure of these starches and the effect they will have on your gravy:

 Amylose and amylopectin are the two main starches found in thickening agents.  Amylose is a long chain of sugar molecules connected together.  Amylopectin, on the other hand, is a branched-chain starch.  That means it looks like badly made balloon animal, with parts sticking out from the main chain.  The type of starch present in any thickening agent depends on the plant from which it is derived.  Amylose is typically found in grains like wheat, corn, and rice, while amylopectin exists more often in roots, like tapioca and potato.

The properties of amylose and amylopectin make them react differently when they have gelatinized.  Amylose tends to be able to absorb more liquid, which allows you to use less of amylase-based agents.  It also tends to gelatinize at higher temperatures, which means heat must be used to thicken sauces using this ingredient.  On the negative side, amylase is prone to “retrogradation”.  Retrogradation is the process by which the gel binds to itself upon cooling.  A great example of retrogradation is the texture of rice from Chinese take-out.  Fresh, hot rice is soft and fluffy.  Cold rice is hard and dry–seeming under-cooked.  When you reheat the rice, the gelled starch breaks the bonds to other starch molecules, and the fluffiness returns.  If a sauce thickened with amylose is frozen, it breaks down because ice crystals form more easily.  Another unfortunate process that occurs with amylose starches is synerisis.  Synerisis is the loss of liquid as the hydrated starch sits for a period of time.  This is the liquid seen when lemon meringue pie filling is thickened with flour and sits a couple days—you know—that “tide pool” on top?

Amylopectin gels at a lower temperature.  This allows quick thickening without having to heat the liquid excessively.  It also holds up better to freezing and does not experience synerisis or retrogradation.  Regrettably, for those of you penny-pinchers, the starches that are mostly amylopectin tend to carry a heftier price tag.

Now that you’re well-versed in starches and chemical reactions, let’s talk turkey-gravy! Properly made gravy starts with removing the pan drippings and pouring off most of the fat (don’t you dare throw those drippings away though!).  What little fat remains can now be used as the base for a roux, just by adding a little flour and cooking the mixture.  The stock can now be added, and the basic gravy should be lump-free.  Now you can add some of those drippings back because they have concentrated flavor and salt.  To keep the gravy from being too salty, the drippings should be used as seasoning. In other words add drippings/ taste/repeat. 

Don’t panic if the result is too thin, but step away from the flour container! Adding more flour now will give you pasty tasting gravy. Take a deep breath and reach for the cornstarch to make a slurry (a mixture of cornstarch and COLD stock or water). Adding this little paste to simmering gravy will allow you to adjust the consistency to be the rich, thick gravy that you desire.

And there you have it—holiday disaster diverted! No more suffering though bad, lumpy gravy.  Create a new family tradition of great, silky gravy that compliments your hard work on the turkey.  Now, that canned cranberry sauce is another story…..

To see additional Food Science features click here: FOOD SCIENCE

About Joe LaVilla

Chef LaVilla is the Academic Director for the Culinary Arts programs at the International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Phoenix. Besides being a Certified Executive Chef, Chef LaVilla also holds a certification from the International Sommelier Guild (ISG) as a Certified Sommelier. In addition, Chef LaVilla is experienced in food styling, food and wine pairing, the hospitality industry, culinary arts management, and more.

Before joining The Art Institute of Phoenix, LaVilla had been Executive Chef for Tucchetti restaurant in Phoenix. He has worked for Mark Tarbell as well as Wolfgang Puck. His credits include, “Faculty of the Year” award at The Art Institute of Phoenix; finalist in the Arizona Pork Council Taste of Elegance Competition; and author of the textbook “The Handbook of Wine, Beer and Spirits: A Guide to Styles and Service”.

Chef LaVilla received his Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry from the University of Rochester and his Bachelor of Arts degree, Cum Laude, in Chemistry from Cornell University. He also received an associate’s degree in Culinary Arts from the Culinary Institute of America, where he graduated with honors.

Coffee and Covert Operations

Whether you brew a fresh pot at home or drop by a local coffee shop to get your fix, that steaming cup of java is the life-blood of non-morning and morning people, alike.  Whether mind and body are prepared to rise and start the day, that a.m.-jolt has been a habit for millions of people for thousands of years!

Historians and scientists identify 800 AD as the start-date for human consumption of coffee in its purest form.  Africans combined coffee beans with animal fat to form energy-packed snacks that would sustain them during rigorous daily activities.  Consider that the next time you take a sip of your seasonally flavored pumpkin spiced latte or bite into your chocolate-peanut butter Power Bar ™!

Coffee made its grand entrance in Arabia around 1000 AD. The Arabians began experimenting with the beans and found that roasting and boiling them resulted in a satisfying “bean broth.” The Muslims became particularly fond of coffee and its energizing properties, thus the beverage became an integral part of their culture and as Islam spread, so did the coffee-drinking tradition.

The Arabians were savvy businessmen who saw great potential for wealth in monopolizing the coffee-trade. They went to great measures to isolate coffee growth in Arabia by boiling or roasting all exported beans in order to prevent outside cultivation. They successfully dominated the coffee-production market until the 1600’s when a clever smuggler managed to leave Arabian borders with fertile seeds.

Slowly but surely, coffee began to spread throughout Europe by way of travelers and traders. Europeans were often wary of Eastern products and coffee was no different. While some embraced the new drink, others turned up their noses. Some even called it “the bitter invention of Satan.”  I like to think the devil would be pleased with this credit.

When coffee arrived in Venice in 1615, Pope Clement VIII decided to sample this beverage to determine whether it was an acceptable, Catholic libation. Perhaps Pope Clement hit the communion wine a bit too hard the night before and felt the therapeutic effects of “the caffeine buzz”, but he enthusiastically deemed it satisfying and gave it Papal approval.

In “the New World” (North America to all of you who were drooling on your desks during history class), coffee became the preferred “pick-me-up” of the Colonists who refused to pay the high taxes the British had imposed on their tea.  Just think, if not for the Boston Tea Party (and the ensuing Revolutionary War), Americans might be trading-in their coffee breaks for tea time!

By the 17th century, the Dutch had their own coffee plantations on the Indonesian islands of Java, Sumatra, and Celebes. The Dutch aspired to corner the European coffee market, but failed to convey that message to the Mayor of Amsterdam who gave a young coffee plant to King Louis XIV of France for his Botanical Garden.  Oops! 

Sure enough, in 1723, a naval officer by the name of Gabriel de Clieu managed to sneak a seedling from the coffee plant and successfully transport it to the Island of Martinique in the French West Indies. The seedling thrived and soon its offspring were flourishing throughout the islands of the Caribbean.

South and Central American leaders soon took notice of this Caribbean cash crop and were eager to get their hands on the magical bean. In 1727, Brazil’s Emperor sent Francisco de Mello Palheta to Cayenne, French Guiana with an overt request for some fertile beans. The French governor flatly refused him; however, the governor’s lovely wife, had her own ideas. No woman can resist a man from Ipenema, tall and tan, and young and lovely – you get the gist.  In a covert act of retaliation against her stingy-husband, she gave a large bouquet of flowers to darling Francisco in which she had sewn the precious seedlings. Today, Brazil is the world’s largest coffee producer and is becoming a significant player in the specialty coffee industry. Hope he was worth it!

It seems coffee has been coveted for generations with well-documented occurrences of covert operations, Papal acceptance, and misguided Mayors.  Roll it in fat, cover it in chocolate, or simply wake to that gorgeous aroma every morning – folks played hardball for that cup o’ joe – enjoy it!

For More Coffee 101, click here

Brought to you by Village Coffee Roastery, turning Science into Art

The Spirit of Tea

By Chef Larry Canepa

You may be wondering why we have an article on tea in the Wine & Spirits section of our website. Well, while it may not be as inebriating as other beverages; it is intoxicating in its own way, it has seduced the world, and it is as addictive a substance as any other. So with this definition as a justification, we will place it here to facilitate further debate.

In the book, The Empire of Tea, the authors describe the impact of tea on the world as no less than miraculous. Described as a conqueror, an addiction, and a cure all; tea has led many of the great waves of history. It provided impetus for discovery of the east by the west and vice-versa. It helped enable the industrial revolution by providing a safer alternative to contaminated water than wine or beer (fewer people mucking up the works by falling into the machinery), it served as a MacGuffin for the American Revolution, and it is even thought to have caused a number of religious movements because of its meditative qualities.

The book quotes Isaac D’Israeli on the subject:

The progress of this famous plant has been something like the progress of truth; suspected at first, though very palatable to those who had the courage to taste it; resisted as it encroached; abused as its popularity spread; and establishing its triumph at last,  in cheering the whole land from the palace to the cottage, only by slow and resistless effort of time and its own virtues.

But to many, tea is still an enigma. It comes from exotic places that most of us may never visit and the difference between high quality and mediocre tea is difficult for the uninitiated to discern since it provides no lingering headaches. So, let’s take a moment to try to understand tea a bit better.

First of all, let’s define “tea.” All true tea comes from the leaves of one plant, Camellia Sinensis. It is a hearty plant that developed on the eastern slope of the Himalayas. Basically, if it doesn’t come from this plant, it ain’t tea. Other types of infusion drinks including Tisanes, or herbal teas, come from a variety of plants, botanicals, and fruits and are quite nice in their own right but are not considered tea.

Similar to wine, tea is affected greatly by the environment in which it grows. Differences in soil and weather conditions create a rich mosaic of tea’s many varieties and flavors. Altitude also plays an important role. Tea plants grow slower at higher altitudes producing leaves with more concentrated flavor.

Gourmet tea varieties are almost exclusively made from these high-grown leaves while the low-growth varieties are more common and more likely to be found at the supermarket. What makes a gourmet tea? Gourmet teas are made exclusively from the plant’s most tender young leaves. Tea pickers, usually working by hand, select the plant’s two youngest leaves and a yet-to-open bud. These tender new leaves produce a tea that is more gentle and flavorful than the older varieties and are reserved for the highest quality production.

As the popularity of tea grew over time, it spread to different regions of the world. The most widely recognized teas come from China, Japan and India but quality teas can come from areas ranging from South East Asia (see Sabah Tea Plantation in Borneo video) to Britain.

There are many classifications for tea, and how the leaves are processed will determine a key distinction as white, green, oolong, or black teas. The main difference between the many tea varieties is how much oxygen the leaves are allowed to absorb during processing. When tea leaves are harvested, a natural oxidation begins to occur. This oxidation is environmental and is halted by heating the tea leaves. This heating is done by firing or steaming the leaves. Unprocessed leaves are white tea. A bit of oxidation results in green tea, and abundant oxygen produces dark-colored black teas.

Oolong teas are allowed to oxidize for various lengths of time and the extended oxidation produces a wide range of character and caffeine content; the darker, or more oxidized, the higher the caffeine content. While this is a simplification of a somewhat complicated process, it outlines the basic characteristic differences in the various tea types.

Tea is often lauded for its medicinal purposes. In the beginning, its primary benefit came from the fact that one needed to heat and boil water to make it. This, clearly, made the water safe to drink. In addition, to this fundamental medicinal quality, all “tea” has healthful benefits. It soothes and relaxes and provides us with many important antioxidants. One just needs to taste and explore to find the one that most appeals to you. Since there are over 3,000 different teas in the world you are sure to find one that is perfect for you.

After you have decided which varieties will be permanent fixtures in your pantry, you’ll want to know how to properly brew them for optimum enjoyment (no–throwing a tea bag in a mug of water and then giving it a whirl in the microwave will NOT suffice). We got these tips from the tea experts at Ceylon Tea:

First, the experts suggest investing in a tea kettle. They are relatively inexpensive, and truly provide the best environment for steeping tea.

  • Black tea – Black is the most robust of the tea varieties and can be brewed in truly boiling water, usually steeped for 4-6 minutes.
  • Green and white tea – Be gentle with all green teas. The water temperature should be around 150-160ºF and only steeped for 2-4 minutes.
  • Most herbal teas – With so many different herbs that can be used for herbal tea blends, there is no way to give any temperature or steeping guidelines with any accuracy. Most herbs can be brewed in boiling water and steeped for about 5 minutes. You might need a bit of trial and error to get the perfect cup.

If you don’t have a thermometer handy, you can tell the water temperature by watching the bubbles. Small bubbles will float to the surface of the water 160-170ºF, and you’ll see strings of bubbles from the bottom of the kettle at 180-190ºF. After that, you will have a full rolling boil.

You also can use an infuser to steep your teas for easy cleaning. Refrain from filling the infusers to the top. Make sure that there is room for the leaves to unfurl during the steeping process. The best infusers are made from one or more of the following materials:

  • Finely woven non-reactive metal (such as gold-plated metal wire)
  • Micro-perforated non-reactive metal (such as food grade  stainless steel)
  • Non-leeching/BPA-free food grade plastic
  • Closely woven wood that doesn’t impact the tea’s flavor, such as those made of bamboo.

Finally, always use a strainer to pour the tea into your cup. You want to drink tea. not chew it.

So, go ahead and get addicted. Feel free to be seduced. Raise a cup and drink to your health!

There are many tea purveyors out there, but our favorite is made by our partners at Ceylon Tea.

Click on the logo to learn more about Ceylon Tea, and select from an array of delicious, high quality teas.

Members can read more on Tea Classifcations and Varieties of Tea by signing in and clicking here.

About Larry

Chef Larry Canepa brings  30 years of Food and Wine experience to today’s adult culinary learners. He has worked in the Food & Wine business as Chef, caterer, sommelier and Food and Wine educator. He has taught culinary and restaurant operation classes at the International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Phoenix and Le Cordon Bleu, Scottsdale. His experiences include management and operation of free-standing restaurants, hotels and resorts. Chef Larry Canepa owned and operated the full service catering business, Dinner at Eight for 10 years in the Valley, specializing in intimate private dining and wine seminars. Larry Canepa has conducted seminars and lectures on coffee, tea, wine, etiquette, cooking and service for students, adults, continuing education classes and charitable organizations.

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