Month: September 2010 (Page 1 of 3)

Triple-Header

I am SO glad that I started taking my vitamins.  Playing a triple header this week boys and girls!

Wednesday: Began with my DD, Abbie, and me heading east to the Eatrip film event at The Chef’s Loft presented by Slow Foods and Edible Phoenix.  My curse of arriving way too early all the damned time delightfully landed us at the gorgeous new location of Marcellino’s on Stetson Drive.  We were so warmly greeted I was catapulted back to my business class days on Singapore Airlines – and that’s a good thing!

I enjoyed a lovely glass of Pinto Grigio (Abbie had Cranberry Juice), and the fun and well-educated bartender, Lou, expertly informed us of the specials and showcased the homemade pasta selections.

Next, I met Chef and instantly asked that he join me on TV – big, Italian, not afraid to speak his mind – famous kind of guy! His wife, Sima, sat down with us for a few minutes and Scott gave us the skinny on just how wonderful employment is with this crowd.

I promised to stop by for dinner some night when I’m really hungry and elevate my taste buds to what must surely be Nirvana. Up the stairs we go to The Chef’s Loft. If you haven’t been there, you should go for some of their really cool cooking classes, or better yet, reserve the space for your next fundraiser or cocktail party. You’ll be well cared for.

The Eatrip film was a documentary from Japan which painted a picture of several people’s intimate relationship with their food. The texture of the piece was lovely and I really enjoyed it, but what I enjoyed even more were the samples we received from Sushi Roku and Sapporo……

Thursday: Into the Soup and Emily get a press pass to the newly redesigned and revamped Sapporo. Talk about another great greeting! We got Red-Carpet treatment, but the red ropes had me scared there for a minute.  My evening was kick-started by a Sapporo Slushy, followed by beautiful girls and boys offering tastes of everything from shrimp spring rolls to sushi on a chip, and my favorite, calamari fries.

Chief Brand Officer (and super nice guy) Daniel Harf explained their concept and introduced the crowd to his team. One of which was Director of Culinary Operations, Chef Steve Byrne. Naturally, I had to go introduce myself and immediately insulted Chef by insinuating he was from the England – insert foot – he’s Irish. Didn’t seem to matter though – lucky me. I got a bit of a personal tour of all of tempanaki stations set up in permanent position throughout the restaurant. There was a beautiful separation of spaces with black bamboo, low hanging ‘lanterns’ and levels. The menu was a kick a$& selection of Kobe beef sliders, lamb chops with mint pesto and  Asian pear, scallops, mussels and of course, sushi. An element of most of the cocktails being served was ROCK SAKE. The adorable owner of the company, Brad, sweated as he applied my very personal fake tattoo (pictures to follow)

Oh, we also made a pit stop at T-Cooks for some fan-inspired tacos, my first hand-shake with THE Mark Tarbell, and to spend some time with MY biggest fan Christina Barrueta and her husband, Ernesto.

Friday: TV time!  I rose bright and early this morning for a quick segment on Channel 3 promoting TASTE Chandler. Not ready to abandon my Asian-themed week yet, I whipped up some Sapporo-inspired sushi for the camera (and camera crew…and Tara Hitchcock). 

Saturday: TASTE Chandler. I’m not there yet, but thought I’d let you all know what a great time I had in case I forget to tell you. Yours truly will not only be doing a cooking demonstration, but I get to emcee the VIP event, too! Play by play on all of the chefs and their creations. Who wants to bet I’ll mistake sweet corn sauce for marzipan? 

Oops, I’m out of vitamins – anybody got a vodka-Redbull handy??

Food Science: Ice, Ice, Baby

By Chef Joe LaVilla

One of my favorite childhood memories of summer is a Lemon Italian ice. It was syrupy, sweet, tangy and refreshing all at the same time. As I grew up and relocated, I found that it was difficult to find that particular treat. So, putting my knowledge of chemistry and the culinary arts to good use, I found that all it took to emulate my it was the perfect proportion of three common ingredients: sugar, fruit, and water. Oh… and a freezer comes in handy too.

If you’re not a fan of Lemon Italian Ice but find sorbets, Granitas, or fruit bars irresistible, you can apply the same chemistry and ingredients to create these confections.  While these icy treats differ in form and texture, you will find that they are basically the same. The distinguishing characteristics are mainly dictated by the proportions of the ingredients used in their creation and the containers in which they are stored.

The basic science behind making an ice treat is the concept of freezing point. The freezing point of a liquid is the temperature at which the free-flowing molecules begin to organize and form a solid.  While it is not possible to make a liquid freeze at a temperature higher than 32 °F (the standard freezing point of water), it is possible to make it freeze at a lower temperature.

One way to drop the freezing point of water is to dissolve something into it.  This is the theory behind salting the roads in winter. The salt reduces the freezing point of the water (precipitation) turning what would be slippery, icy streets into significantly less-hazardous, wet asphalt. The addition of sugar does the same thing in the preparation of an ice-based dessert. Sugar molecules disrupt the organized structure of the ice crystals effectively lowering the point at which the liquid becomes solid.

Why would you want the freezing point of a sugar-water solution to be low? So that it will stay soft in the freezer. It’s certainly easier to scoop sorbet than an ice cube!

Now that the physics of the matter are out of the way, let’s focus on making some ice-treats. 

First you must decide what kind of dessert you’re craving. Do you want a rich, fruity dessert? Something that resembles scoopable fruit juice? Or, a crunchier fruit-ice? Any of these are possible depending on the liquid, fruit, and sugar ratio you use.

The classic recipe for sorbet combines water, sugar and fruit juice. To determine if the correct amount of sugar has been added, a chef will often float an egg in the solution. If a dime sized portion of the egg floats above the liquid, he has added enough sugar. This is the poor man’s hydrometer, a tool for measuring specific gravity or density. A sorbet made with this method tends to have a good texture, but often lacks a vibrant, fruity flavor.

This is where science helps kick the recipe up a notch; that is, enhance the flavor and “scoopability” of the sorbet using more exact measurements and ratios. For a sorbet to attain the correct texture, it has to have a specific concentration of sugar. That concentration needs to be 15-30% sugar. If the solution is closer to 20-25%, the sorbet will be smooth and manageable upon production, but will need to be tempered if it is left in the freezer.  If the mix is between 30 and 35% sugar, the treat is spoon-ready right out of the freezer. Anything that has a higher concentration of sugar will weep syrup in the freezer and in the bowl.

If you’re looking for a dessert with more “bite”, a Granita may satisfy your palate. It is an Italian-style ice with large, dry, flavorful crystals that is made from a mixture of water and/or juice that has a 15% concentration of sugar. The lower sugar concentration means that the sugar has less of an impact on the formation of ice crystals. During the freezing process, the water and juice are allowed to form larger, sturdier crystals that yield more of a “crunch” when devoured.  The mix is frequently stirred to keep it loose and servable.

So, what’s the guideline? 

Well, for two cups of liquid or liquid and puree, add between 5 to 8 tablespoons of sugar. The variation is determined by the sweetness of the fruit. For a very sweet fruit like a peach, 5-6 tablespoons should do the trick, but a lemon would require about 8 tablespoons. If you are using a fruit puree, it is possible to reduce the amount of sugar because the pectin and solids of the puree will help keep the sorbet soft.  

Also, it is important to note the importance of balancing the sugar with acidity. Typically very ripe fruit is low in acidity and high in sugar. For every two cups of a low-acid fruit puree/juice, it is necessary to add a tablespoon of lemon juice. For high-acid fruits, it may not be necessary to add anything. As for my summer memory, Italian ice is about 35% sugar. That concentration explains the slightly syrupy flavor and consistency.

Mimicking a sorbet from the grocery store would involve taking a cup of fruit puree, adding a bit of sugar and lemon, diluting the mixture to yield 2 cups, and freezing. If you only had juice (or coffee, tea, cocoa), taking a cup of liquid, adding about 11 or 12 tablespoons of sugar and a couple of tablespoons of lemon would result in an ice with a more delicate flavor and texture. 

So if the Ice Cream man doesn’t come around anymore, your favorite childhood treat is only as far away as some fruit, sugar and a freezer.

Read more Food Science secrets here

About Joe LaVilla

Chef LaVilla is the Academic Director for the Culinary Arts programs at the International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Phoenix. Besides being a Certified Executive Chef, Chef LaVilla also holds a certification from the International Sommelier Guild (ISG) as a Certified Sommelier. In addition, Chef LaVilla is experienced in food styling, food and wine pairing, the hospitality industry, culinary arts management, and more.

Before joining The Art Institute of Phoenix, LaVilla had been Executive Chef for Tucchetti restaurant in Phoenix. He has worked for Mark Tarbell as well as Wolfgang Puck. His credits include, “Faculty of the Year” award at The Art Institute of Phoenix; finalist in the Arizona Pork Council Taste of Elegance Competition; and author of the textbook “The Handbook of Wine, Beer and Spirits: A Guide to Styles and Service”.

Chef LaVilla received his Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry from the University of Rochester and his Bachelor of Arts degree, Cum Laude, in Chemistry from Cornell University. He also received an associate’s degree in Culinary Arts from the Culinary Institute of America, where he graduated with honors.

Italian Arugula Soup with Pesto Crostini Provided by Edible Phoenix

Edible Phoenix is part  Edible communities, a nationwide movement to support buying local food products. They provided this soup recipe which appeared in a recent issues of their magazine. The soup comes from Executive Chef Edward Farrow of Café at MIM. He met farmer Carl Seacat of Seacat Gardens while working at a previous restaurant and kept in touch. Chef created this light and healthy soup to showcase the wild Italian arugula grown at Seacat Gardens.

 Ingredients

  • 4 ounces The Meat Shop bacon, small dice
  • 1 medium sweet onion, small dice,
  • 4 stalks of celery, small dice
  • 2 carrots peeled, small dice
  • 1 Anaheim chile, small dice
  • 6 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 small bunch thyme, leaves only
  • 2 sprigs of sage, leaves only
  • 1 gallon vegetable stock
  • 6 ounces white tepary beans, cooked – see note
  • 6 ounces brown tepary beans, cooked – see note
  • 1½ pounds Seacat Gardens arugula leaves (no stem)
  • 2 lemons
  • 2 limes
  • Salt to taste
  • Crostini (recipe follows)
  • Arugula pesto (recipe follows)

Cook bacon slowly over moderate heat to render as much fat as possible. Add onion, carrot, celery and chile, and cook until translucent. Then add minced garlic and herbs. Sweat slowly for 5 minutes, making sure you gain no color on the vegetables. Add the vegetable stock and beans. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add 1½ pounds of Seacat Gardens arugula to simmering liquid. Stir vigorously and turn off fire. Squeeze the juice of both citrus into soup. Season with salt to taste. Serve with grilled crostini spread with arugula pesto.

Serves 16; recipe may be halved.

Note:  tepary beans are small firm beans native to Arizona.  You can substitute navy beans, lentils or other small legumes.

Crostini

  • 1 baguette (thin loaf of French bread)
  • Olive oil

Slice baguette at an angle. Brush with olive oil and grill over medium heat until toasted, a couple minutes.

Seacat Arugula Pesto

  • ½ pound Seacat Gardens arugula leaves (no stems)
  • ¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan-Reggiano
  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons pine nuts or walnuts
  • 1 medium garlic clove, minced
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Purée all ingredients in a blender until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

For more Soups of the Week Click Here

 

About Pamela Hamilton, Publisher and Editor of Edible Phoenix

Pamela Hamilton has enjoyed living, food shopping and dining around the world. She established Edible Phoenix magazine to celebrate the abundance of the Valley season by season. “There are so many amazing people quietly establishing and carrying on food traditions in the Valley who are passionate about what they do, but you have to really look to find them.  Often they don’t have the support they need.  One of my jobs is to unearth these ‘hidden gems’ and to get their stories out to the general public.”

Pamela is the Governor of the Southwest region for Slow Food and is a member of Les Dames D’Escoffier. She is a past co-leader of Slow Food Phoenix and currently serves as Treasurer for the local chapter. Pamela serves as a board member for Community Food Connections and is a member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. She was formerly a management consultant and holds a Bachelor degree from Stanford University. Click here to learn more about Edible Phoenix.

About Savory Choice Broths

 Click Here for More Soups of the Week

Capistrano’s Breakin’ Bread: Bagels

by Emily King

A bagel and cream cheese, some orange juice, coffee, and a newspaper: Sounds like a wholesome “All-American” sort of breakfast, right? The bagel has become such a popular breakfast food in this country, that it is almost surprising to think that they are not an American creation at all! Contrary to what you might think, the bagel was not created in conjunction with “Philadelphia Cream Cheese”—in fact, bagels pre-date cream cheese by over 200 years!

Bagels are ring formed breads that are typically boiled before baking. They have a crisp outer layer, preventing the dough from rising beyond a certain point. Like many food products, the origin of the bagel is a little bit foggy, but a whole lot of fun if the story is true!

Folklore suggests that the bagel was designed as a tribute to Jan Sobieski, a Polish General. In 1683, this Polish General saved Vienna from invasion by the Turks, and as legend has it, the adoring townspeople clutched his stirrups (“breugels” in German) as he rode through town. The King asked a baker to design a bread-product in the shape of a stirrup to honor the general for his bravery. Overtime, the stirrup-shaped bread morphed into the rounder shape we know today, and the “breugel” became the “bagel.”

Of course, there are other explanations for the bagel’s ring-like form. Some accounts say that Russian and Polish bakers created the bagel because it was easy to skewer on long poles and sell on the street as a competitor for bublik, while others believe that it is simply a descendant of the pretzel and got its name from the German word “beignen” which means “to bend.” Heck, there are apparently Egyptian hieroglyphs showing a bagel like bread being eaten by the ancients – or was that the eye of Ra? You know what they say, “…print the legend.”

No matter which Bagel-origin theory you believe, it is clear that they became an important tradition in Polish communities. Because of their ring-shape, the bagels were considered a sign of luck and good tidings and were commonly given as gifts to pregnant women. Mothers even used them as teething rings for their grumpy, uncomfortable babies.

Polish immigrants, many Jewish bakers from Krakow, left many things behind as they traveled to America in the early 1900’s to seek out new opportunities; but luckily, they brought their bagel-making tradition. Bakers in New York, Toronto, and Montreal introduced the public to bagels and the public simply couldn’t get enough of the chewy, round bread.

The bagel has endured because of its practicality. The process of making it creates a protective outer crust that allows it to last longer then baked breads and stay fresh.  It is perfect for spreads, and it is easily transportable. Not to mention, good bagels are quite tasty.

 They became widely popular in the United States after WWII when American’s became open to new culinary influences and mass production became possible.  Today, we can find bagels everywhere—from coffee shops to delis.

They are difficult to make at home, though and can be quite messy, we don’t event try. We get ours from Capistrano’s Wholesale bakery. So, toast them. “shmear” them with cream cheese, or build a sandwich (they make great cheeseburgers), and check out our sponsor’s for all their quality breads.

Click here to read more Breakin’ Bread Features.

Visit Capistrano’s Wholesale Bakery online by clicking here.

Click Here to read more Breakin’ Bread Features

Or, in Arizona, Capistrano’s artisan breads are available at Vincent’s Saturday Market on Camelback when it is open, at Holsum Outlets, and now at Luci’s Healthy Marketplace. Here are the locations.

  • Apache Junction – 10107 E. Apache Trail
  • Casa Grande – 823 N. Pinal
  • Chandler – 7275 W. Detroit
  • Peoria – 9210 W. Peoria
  • Tucson – 2801 S. 4th Avenue
  • Luci’s Healthy Marketplace -1590 East Bethany Home Road, Phoenix

 

5 Tips on Health Through Food with Kami Pastis: September

You are not alone of you have times when you crave salt.  Your body is likely telling you something. Often it can be your internal genius crying out for more essential minerals.  For many Americans who eat the Standard American Diet (S.A.D.) getting enough salt isn’t the problem, in fact we get too much sodium in the form of refined, white table salt.  A great alternative that actually nourishes your adrenal glands and thyroid, keeps your blood alkaline and can even increase the healing powers of other foods is Sea Salt.

5 Tips

Many of you reading this already use sea salt because of its outstanding taste compared to regular table salt. Now you can learn how good it’s doing your body as well as your taste buds.

  1. Ditch the white, highly refined table salt. Instead purchase some high quality, mineral rich, unprocessed Sea Salt.  They may be colored, but the colors are merely the presence of valuable, nourishing minerals our bodies need for good health.
  2. Ladies, try cutting way back on salt intake after ovulation to avoid feeling up tight and irritable.  Reducing your salt intake also helps to ease that time of cleansing your body is going through.
  3. Men need more salt than women. Athletes (especially endurance athletes) need more salt to function.  Children under the age of 2 need almost none. Between 1600-2400 mg. of sodium per day is a good general guideline for adults. 1 tsp of salt provides 2000 mg. sodium.
  4. Pure, raw Sea Salt can help balance gut flora by alkalizing the blood so diseases like Candidiasis (yeast infection caused by an overgrowth of Candida Albicans) cannot thrive. Important to note: you cannot correct a mineral deficiency with Sea Salt, taking additional minerals is necessary, so consult your Doctor.
  5. Revitalize and relax with a Sea Salt bath soak.  It’s not just for food! A Sea Salt bath helps to relax muscles, ease aches and pains in the joints, additionally it draws out impurities from the skin.

For more tips on Health & Wellness click here

 

About Kami

Kamara Pastis is a certified personal trainer, life style educator, group fitness instructor and licensed massage therapist in the Phoenix area. Clinical, therapeutic massage has been her mainstay for seven years where she has experienced the lasting therapeutic changes massage can make in cases with debilitating pain and disfunction. The traditional Thai and Yogi tradition of metta (literally “loving kindness”) is Kami’s healing philosophy. When not healing her patients, Kami is more than blissfully occupied with her husband and three kids.

To contact Kami and learn more about her services Click Here: www.kamaralmt.com or call (602) 622-1046. Tell her you saw her on intotheSoup.com

 

Heidi Hits the Town

Okay, how many times have you heard me say “I Love My Job!”?  Well, I just said it again though my head and stomach are a little worse for wear due to my jaunt on the town last night.  I’m gladly sluggin’ a sip of Pepto and poppin’ a few pain relievers as I jot down what I can recall about the evening.

It has been a while since I visited my local restaurants, and I was feeling the need to get out.  I knew it was going to be a long night, but lucky for me, the newest member of my intern entourage, Abbie, doesn’t drink and is an excellent driver.  I could call her an enabler, but let’s stay positive, shall we? 

She’s also a copious note taker on the mini-laptop she lugs around in her purse. Thank goodness. Otherwise, the many dishes we sampled would have been lost to the void created by combining alcohol with Ambien and this blog would be a lot shorter.

Our first stop was to attend the launch party for Local First’s Shift Ten event at El Chorro Lodge.  Ok, so we missed it by a week… the party is scheduled for next Thursday.  Oh well, I got to meet Executive Chef Charles Kassels  and we chatted a bit about his upcoming C-CAP (Careers through Culinary Arts Program) Heavy Medal competition.  The very funny bartender poured me my first glass of wine, and I asked the Chef about the unique addition of almond paste in the tasty crab cake I just tried.  Open mouth, insert foot!  “It’s a sweet corn sauce,” he told me.  Of course it is. And, it went beautifully with the red onions, carrots and pesto.  Off to see Chuck at Café  ZuZu.

I’d never met Chef Charles Wily before, and I had the perfect excuse to just drop in.  His Chef de Cuisine, Sean “Mad Dog” Currid, shot for the TV segment last week and left his cast-iron casserole dishes behind. I was more than happy to return them.  Chef Wiley was insanely busy, but he took the time to come out to talk with us twice.  Knowing how crazy things get, we appreciated the chance to talk with us. Even better, he whipped up some gorgeous dishes for us to try: chilled beet salad with goat cheese; gnocci with organic mushrooms, brown butter and parmesano/reggiano; fried green tomatoes with jumbo lump crab meat, and perfectly prepared orange and ginger seared Ahi.  All of this loveliness along with little Pinot Grigio was pure heaven. Time to go play with Eddie!

I adore Eddie Matney. He’s always smiling or trying to make me smile, and I learn something from him every time we meet.  One thing I know now, he likes girls in jeans, and his “House” is just as inviting as he is.  The place was packed!  We walked in the door, and he greeted us with a huge smile and a big hug.  Abbie grabbed the last two seats at the bar then ordered Cosmo for me and a bowl of the Lobster Bisque to share.  After greeting a few more guests, Eddie came by, asked a few questions about our tastes, and we were summarily served a wedge salad, his infamous Mo-Rockin’ Shrimp and marinated lamb chops which I’m polishing off right now for breakfast.  The cutie behind the bar made what I consider a superior Cosmopolitan (the ladies’ favorite drink), but I have no idea why or how he slipped me that second one. That’s my story , and I’m stickin’ to it. Off to see Pavle.

As stuffed as we were, I just really wanted to pop by, introduce myself, and reserve a seat for us this coming Sunday.  Pavle had been on the radio program, but it was the one I missed, so I wanted to thank him personally.  FnB was packed, too. He sat us down at their very groovy bar and brought me about two ounces of what I remember as home-made limoncello.  Yipes!  Seriously, it was very tasty, and I’m looking forward to sampling what I’ve only heard is outstanding fare and the service of exclusively Arizona Wines.

POSH or not to POSH. That was the question.  How could Abbie drive me past one of my most favorite people’s place of business like that? Well, she’s new to the gig, so we will forgive her.

I had pretty much peaked at Eddie’s House, and there was quite the raucous crowd in POSH so I sidled up to the bar for a quick night cap!  Joshua recommended a Blood and Sand, a gorgeous combination of Scotch, sweet vermouth, OJ and cherry brandy. That boy knows his nightcaps.  As good as I am, I couldn’t polish that one off, so I gave him an extra long, emotion filled, “I love you, man”  hug and asked the lovely, little  Abbie to take me home.  She makes a good DD.

As much as I’d love for this type of Thursday night to be weekly event, I just don’t think I can afford that much Tylenol.  It’s been a long time since I hit the town that hard, I don’t see it happening again soon.

I am making it a personal goal to visit one of our local independent joints each week.  I feel very lucky and blessed to be part of this community with restaurateurs who make such fantastic fare and our world a nicer place in which to live.  They deserve our support. 

So, I invite you, dear reader, to join me in this goal whether you are in Phoenix, LA, New York or Singapore. Pick just one place a week and go, and bring a friend. If you are strapped have an appetizer or tapas. Every little bit counts.

 Next week I plan to have recuperated enough to attend that Local First Event at El Chorro!  From there, I will pick a place to visit every Thursday night and tweet it. 

Finally, please drink responsibly (but if you can’t, I’ll give you Abbie’s phone number).

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