On the Road with Ray: Regional Sights and Bites
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By Ray Pearson
This stop: Silverton, CO
Silverton, Colorado, formerly a “gritty little mining town”, has earned the more gentrified name of “Heart of the High Country”. At nearly 9400 foot elevation, crystal clear, soul-invigorating air creates a year-round outdoor paradise for everyone from nature lovers, to railroad buffs and ghost town hunters, to sports enthusiasts.
A "Leaf Peeper's" Paradise
About 60 miles from Durango, CO, the town is the northern terminus of the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. As regularly as ocean tides, the trains determine the ebb and flow of tourists visiting the town’s shops, restaurants, and mostly-unpaved streets. As the last train of the day departs, the town is eerily quiet, slipping into the lengthening shadows of the San Juan Mountains.
The train keeps the tourists coming
Food in Silverton is so eclectic that the only way to categorize it is alphabetically; that is, A for “All-American” to V for “vegetarian and organic”. My destination of choice for many years has been the funky Handlebars Restaurant and Pub, on West 13th Street. Offerings are what you’d expect in a rugged mountain town--steaks, ribs, and wings. Spoiler alert: be smart about timing your visit to Handlebars around train arrival times, or the wait may be long – it’s a very popular place, with good reason.
The view from the bar at Montanya Rum Distillery
My most exciting discovery on my recent stay in Silverton was the Montanya Rum Distillery. Yes, a rum distillery at nearly two miles above sea level, in the mountains, in a slightly modified cottage on one of those unpaved streets. This “obsessively-crafted high mountain” rum is distilled in two expressions – Platino (light) and Oro (dark). The tasting room is actually a bar, situated so each guest is facing the beautiful copper still. Cocktails made with Montanya (“mountain” in Spanish) Rum vary from traditional to exotic, and all are delicious. Two of my favorites were the Peach Mojito and Wrath of Grapes (apologies to Mr. Steinbeck).
The Wyman Hotel and Inn
My Silverton home-base was the 1902-era, red sandstone, Wyman Hotel and Inn. The 18 rooms are decorated with period antiques, and named after local attractions or personalities. Mine was the Blair Street Room (“Ornate gold decor in the style of a Blair St. bordello. Nothing offensive or obscene”). It turns out Blair Street was the designated red-light district back in the day.
The town of Animas Forks; The Walsh House is centered
A rented Jeep got me over 12 miles of gut-wrenching “road”, to my ghost town destination of Animas Forks. The town was founded in 1873 to support the silver mining industry. A number of buildings and part of the mine structure still remain. The most prominent building is the Walsh House, once owned by the family of Evalyn Walsh McLean, who, during America’s Gilded Age, owned the Hope Diamond.
As a parting gift until we meet again at my next stop, Flagstaff, AZ, here are recipes for my new favorite rum-based cocktails. Cheers!
A Wrath of Grapes!
Click the links below for Ray's Cocktail Recipes:
About Ray
Ray is a nationally recognized single malt Scotch expert. He recently retired after 16 years within the spirits industry, including four as Glenfiddich U.S. Ambassador. Ray currently presents educational whisky seminars and tastings for corporate events, destination management companies, and national whisky shows. He is a photographer and member of the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association.
For more articles from Ray, you can visit his blog:
And of course check out all of his Whisky 101 articles right here at intotheSoup.com.
